The Irony and Necessity of Thinning
Alright, your precious buds have made it through a long winter and recently survived a few very close calls with frost – now what is their reward? Knock half of them off!
Arguably the most important job through the grape-growing season is “thinning” or the selective removal of excess shoots and clusters. We normally start to focus on shoot-thinning at this time of year, as it becomes evident how many buds are viable and how crowded the vine is with growth. Getting an early start is extremely important, as these growing shoots tend to explode towards the sun at rapid pace, especially in warmer spring weather like we are currently experiencing. By my reckoning we are about 7-10 days ahead of the average season at this stage, boding well for getting things ripe at season’s end.
Shoot-thinning aids the growing vine in a number of ways. It gives the remaining shoots a boost in resources, reduces the crop load on the vine, and prevents over-crowding in the canopy. The goal is to get the vine to a stage where it can adequately ripen the crop load you are comfortable with. A less dense canopy is advantageous because it allows better air flow for mildew and botrytis control and increased sun exposure for the clusters. The finishing touch is cluster-thinning around veraison, which helps endow our wines with the concentrated flavours and aromas we are after. I don’t even want to think about cluster-thinning yet, so I’ll tackle that subject at a later date!
I’d also like announce the arrival of the newest addition to our family, a puppy named Lucy. She is an eight week old Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever who will be in charge of bird control and public relations. As for her guard dog skills, I’m skeptical at best, so we’ll spare her that chore for now. I love Lucy.
David Lawrason Review
We are very humbled to have David Lawrason review our wines. He is a very prominent Canadian wine writer whose opinions are held in the highest regard within our industry. Here is what David had to say about our wines:
Five Rows Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
89 points
Only two barrels were produced of this inaugural wine – 45 cases, which sold
out quickly. Lowrey Vineyards has been farmed for five generations, but this
is the first wine; and a dandy. It is a light cabernet sauvignon but very
tasty and savoury with lifted, well integrated aromas of red currant,
raspberry, tea, mocha and spice. It’s very supple, smooth and juicy on the
palate with very soft tannin and excellent length.
Five Rows Sauvignon Blanc 2007
91 points
Only 47 cases were produced from a vineyard but this is very much worth
mentioning for the quality that has been rendered by grower Wes Lowrey’s
first vintage. These grapes have also supplied Creekside’s successful
sauvignons. Fermented in old French oak this has an almost impeccably
smooth, creamy yet not the least fat texture. The nose is ripe, fresh, light
spicy and semi-tropical (I thought immediately of Cloudy Bay) with
lemon-lime, green melon and vaguely minty notes. Very focused on the finish
with excellent length. Very classy wine.
Five Rows Pinot Gris 2007
88 points
From fully ripened grapes this a mellow, mild, richly textured pinot gris
with fruit aromas in the realm of green fig, green banana and ripe pear.
It’s full bodied, very smooth and satiny on the palate with a warm, slightly
sweet ambiance. Very good length.
Filling the Gaps
What do you do when a grapevine dies? The simple answer is that you plant another one in its place. As you navigate the process, however, you come to the realization that there is nothing simple about it!
Due to some cold winter temperatures a few years back, many of our vineyard blocks were left with significant vine death (up to 25% in some spots). Of the surviving vines, many suffered trunk damage to the extent where new suckers had to be brought up from the ground to re-establish the trellis. As a result, our yields were reduced for four consecutive years until the vines recovered and/or were replaced.
Once planted, a replacement vine usually doesn’t usually produce fruit until its third season. They are finicky little buggers that need copious amounts of sun, water, nutrition, protection, structural support and general TLC. They are usually flanked by two old, grumpy vines with deep roots (who were getting used to the extra leg room) that are unwilling to yield any of those aforementioned necessities to this new kid on the block. You begin to see the conundrum. The vineyard as a whole still has to be farmed the same in terms of tilling, hoeing, etc.; but now every practice has to be tailored around these fragile young vines.
The first line of protection for the little guys is the insertion a small stake beside each vine. This prevents the tractor-operated grape hoe from ripping them out of the ground as it removes weeds between the other mature vines. The second line of defence is a “jacket”, of sorts, that envelopes the vine and protects it from herbicides, mechanical damage and rodents. Known as “grow tubes”, they also provide some insulation on those frosty, nervous mornings in the spring.
The temptation is to try to get fruit by the second season of growth, but the smart farmer knows that fruit takes energy from the growing vine, and deep roots are more important than a temporary gain in crop. For this reason the replants are pruned right back to a couple of buds over winter, and any clusters of grapes that do appear the next season are trimmed off.
So the next time you stop by our winery, make sure to take a stroll out to the Sauvignon Blanc and take a peek into the ugly pink grow tubes that dot the vineyard. The little vine you see inside may one day produce fruit that makes the cut in one of our wines. Until then, I just hope Dad doesn’t plow it under by mistake…
Summer Hours
Along with my parents, I would like to announce that our barn will be open to customers for weekends this summer starting Saturday, May 2nd. One of us will be there to serve you on Saturdays and Sundays from 11am-5pm (or thereabouts) until the end of August. The odd time you may have to come and find us somewhere on the farm, but I assure you we will be more than happy heading back into the cool barn to take you through a tasting of our wines! During the week it is still best to call ahead before you stop by to make sure we are available.
I look forward to your visit!
Virtue is Ever Green
My anticipation always heightens at this time of year. Buds are swelling, sap is running and our “to do” list grows exponentially with each warming day. Year in and year out it’s the same routine, but somehow it never gets old. Needless to say, this seasonal ritual predates us and has been experienced by humans since crops were first domesticated some 10 000 years ago.
Through a bit of research I’ve discovered that the Lowrey family has a couple of interesting mottos adorning its Coat of Arms, perhaps shedding a little light on why we make our living as farmers. Depending on the spelling of “Lowrey” and the associated place of origin, the Coat of Arms features the words “Repullulat” or “Virtus Semper Virdis”.
Repullulat translates to “It buds afresh” – and the connection here is pretty obvious. Virtus Semper Virdis translates to “Virtue is ever green” – which could be interpreted a couple of different ways. I like to think that the earliest Lowrey’s foresaw the importance of growing crops and preserving the essence of land through sustainability.
This continues to be a focus of ours, both through vineyard practices and now in designing our wine operation. It is our goal to give Five Rows more of an authentic feel than other “spare no expense” operations. In other words, don’t expect glitz or polish when you pull into our driveway! We don’t even have a sign yet, but somehow people still manage to find us.
Some sustainable and eco-friendly initiatives we promote are: leaf removal and hedging of vines by hand; close proximity of vineyard to picking and crushing facilities; hand-picking of fruit, minimal wine handling; gravity racking (no pump); hand labeling; small, moveable wine tanks (making barn space more flexible); cold stabilization of wine is done outside using the cold temperatures (versus a climate controlled room); finally, we don’t cater to large tour buses.
I welcome any new ideas that you folks may have to aid in reducing our carbon footprint. This will help to strengthen our farm business and keep things “ever green”.
Experience our wine
A number of you have asked where you can experience our wines. The list of places to taste by the glass is now a little longer as we are pleased to announce the following establishments are selling Five Rows:
The Charles Inn – 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Treadwell’s / Snobs Wine Bar – 2007 Pinot Gris by the glass
Jamie Kennedy’s Wine Bar– 2004 Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon
Please support these friends of Five Rows and remember to write down your bottle numbers to enter into our bottle registry.
Spring Tastings Begin…
Spring is here, and over the last week I’ve had the pleasure to host a couple of fun and lively tasting sessions. It was a welcome break from pruning to be joined by groups of both wine “lovers” and wine “makers”, respectively, for a tour of our barn and a taste through the Five Rows portfolio. I have to admit that I still get butterflies when pouring our wines for those who have yet to try them, and I don’t think that will change anytime soon.
I like to use these tastings to gauge the general vibe that people are getting from our winery, and based on our first few sessions the feedback has been tremendous. It excites me that our new friends really get what we are trying to do and often express a desire to lend a hand in the vineyard sometime next season. I’m hoping they all realize that I just might have to take them up on that offer!
I’m finding that each tasting takes on its own dynamic, which keeps me on my toes and very engaged. Often times I like to slip in a new barrel blend that I’ve been working on, as this is a great way to get valuable opinions directly from the people that matter…the wine buyers. Despite subjecting my guests to this “guinea pig” treatment, I’ve yet to receive any complaints.
For example, I’m always trying to fine-tune our 2007 Pinot Noir by experimenting with different amounts of 2008 Pinot as part of the blend. As a rule, we are allowed to blend up to 15% of different vintages into a single varietal wine. The potential marriage of these two vintages is very intriguing. The 2007 Pinot abounds with tannin, colour, and bold “new world” flavours, while the 2008 is more reminiscent of a classic Lowrey Pinot; subtle, elegant and classically Burgundian. To date I’ve experimented with 5-10% of the 2008 in the blend, and results have been mixed. Some loved it, some wanted more 2008, and some felt that it is simply too early to evaluate the potential of the 2007 alone. I tend to fall into the latter category, so perhaps I’ll stop bugging the Pinot and let it do it’s thing for a little while longer.
To our friends in Niagara-On-The-Lake: we are pleased to announce that you can now enjoy our 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon at the historic Charles Inn.
Kudos to Creek
Like many other trades, most winemakers get to where they are by learning from colleagues who have “been there and done that” many times before. I am no exception. I’ve been extremely lucky through the years to learn what I know from two of the best in the Ontario wine business.
Rob Power and Craig MacDonald have won so many awards for Creekside Estate Winery that I’m beginning to lose count. They are obviously skilled craftsmen in the cellar, but what I admire most in these two is their genuine nature, patience and teaching ability. In fact, it is no surprise to me when I open the St. Catharines Standard to read that they had captured four more trophies at Cuveé 2009. They’ve managed to surround themselves with an excellent winemaking team, who would think nothing of bogging out the nastiest of red fermenters at their behest. Now that’s loyalty!
Ever since our initial handshake agreement with Owner Peter Jensen in 1999, my parents and I have felt pride supplying grapes to Creekside and watching as Rob and Craig crafted one great wine after another. As original Creekside grape growers, our fortunes have been tied to theirs for ten years now, and we wouldn’t have been able to start our winery without their continuing help.
It is even sweeter to note that their latest wins at Cuveé really demonstrate the potential for the St. David’s Bench Appellation. All four winning wines contained a majority of fruit sourced at vineyards located in St. Davids. The terroir and micro-climate of this small area really helps ripen later varietals like Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier. These wines tend to be distinctly full-bodied with great structure and ageing potential. Ravine Vineyard and Coyote’s Run are two other exciting wineries that are showcasing the best St. David’s Bench has to offer.
Good on ya, boys!
Five Rows Website Launch
Today marks the next phase in our winery development. We have officially launched our Five Rows website at www.fiverows.com. This will be the hub of our winery operation. From this site you will be able to access my latest blog entries and also get info on all of current and upcoming releases. Excitingly, there is a page specifically designed to keep us connected with all those who have supported us through wine purchases. All customers are encouraged to record their name and bottle number on this page along with an optional comment on the wine or a story behind their connection to Five Rows.
We’ve received many inquiries as to where you can find our wines, so now the website will keep you posted to that end. You will also find a link to our Lowrey Vineyards site, a future showcase for the viticultural side of our operation.
Pondering a Release Date
Now that pruning is in full swing and somewhat under control, I finally have some time to devote to tying up a few loose ends in the winery. One of the challenges of sustaining a vineyard and winery operation of this size (ie. no other employees) is deciding which “hat” to wear on a daily basis. Luckily, my cellar work is fairly minimal at this time of year, with a main focus on protein and cold stabilization in the 2008 whites. I like to use bentonite to obtain protein stability, at a minimal rate, so as not to upset the delicate nature of these aromatic wines. Fining with too much bento can actually have the negative effect of binding and stripping flavour compounds as well as unwanted proteins.
Another important consideration at this time of year is to assess the entire inventory in an attempt to come up with a bottling and release plan for the coming season. Needless to say, this is a daunting task! At the completion of this all-encompassing tasting session, a couple of things became abundantly clear. The first being that the 2008 vintage is a lot more promising than many people touted at the outset, and the second is that our 2007 reds are not quite ready to unleash on the public. These wines are so youthful and intense that further time in barrel is a must in my opinion. From a winery sales perspective this creates a bit of a conundrum. Initially, my intention was to bottle these wines sometime early next summer and have them ready for the fall of 2009, but now I’m leaning towards pushing those dates back. I truly feel that it would be a disservice to these wines to release them prematurely, just to meet budgetary demands.
I’m of the opinion that for Niagara to make the next step on the world stage, we have to make a concerted effort to demonstrate the ageability of our premium wines. The temptation and current trend is to release wines too early, mainly out of cash flow necessity. It is my hope that doing things on a smaller scale will afford us the opportunity to wait for the right time to release, without too much disruption in our business plan. That is the precise reason we decided to make small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon in 2004 and 2005 – to buy time for this kind of scenario.
The good news is that the 2007’s have a chance to be something very special, and lets hope there are enough of them around at the peak of their existence to prove Niagara can age some great wines.