A Great Night

Congratulations to all Cuvee 2010 Award winners!  I applaud all those whose hard work and vision created a work of art that was recognized by their peers as exceptional.  From the grape growers to the winemakers; the cellar hands to the lab rats, all deserve the highest of praise.

The evening itself more than lived up to my expectations.  A packed room of enthusiastic wine lovers streamed around like kids on Christmas morning, eyes wide and not knowing which present to open next.  The food stations were splendid and really helped highlight the true stars of the night – the wines.

The proudest part of the Cuvee experience for me occurred just after stepping away from our table for a few moments to grab a bite to eat.  Upon returning, I was inspired by the size of the crowd around our table and the joy in my parents’ faces as they merrily poured samples and held court.  It dawned on me that we’d reached a milestone this night, and accomplished it together as a family.  In many ways it legitimized the risks and stress involved in our journey thus far.  To have our wines showcased alongside award-winning juggernauts like Creekside, Fielding, Flat Rock and Thirty Bench was truly a thrill.

Based on the amount of “repeat pours” and those who were “sent to try your Cab”  I would conclude that our wines were very well received.  A few of my winemaking colleagues even noted a distinct “Five Rows buzz” in the air, but I actually think they may have been sensing the sheer amount of alcohol being metabolized in the room that night.

Cuvée 2010

One of the marquee events on the Ontario wine scene is the annual Cuvée celebration held every February.  Although fruit from Lowrey Vineyards has graced award-winners in years past, Cuvée 2010 marks the first time our own wines will be showcased and we’re very excited to attend.  You will hear words like “Oscar’s”, “Pomp”, and “Circumstance” used to describe the event, but simply put, it’s a weekend-long showcase of our best stuff.  It’s billed as more celebration than competition, but I assure you that all participating winemakers will secretly have their fingers crossed in hopes of a podium appearance on Gala Night.  Trust me though, based on some of the stupendous wines I tasted at the judging event last month, I won’t be penning any anticipatory acceptance speeches anytime soon!

Due to the 50-case minimum production requirement, we were only able to enter our 2008 Pinot Gris and 2008 Sauvignon Blanc into the competition.  Those visiting our winery over the February 19-21 weekend will get to sample those two wines along with our 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (45 cases produced).   Our barn will be open to the public all three days of Cuvée from 11-5.  Tastings, as always, are complimentary.  Tickets to the Gala event and Cuvée en Route passes can be purchased here, with proceeds going to the Niagara Community Foundation.  I encourage all those with a keen interest in tasting some of Ontario’s best wines to attend and join in the fun.

Zoltan Szabo Reviews

 

Sommelier Zoltan Szabo is a jack of all trades on the Toronto wine scene.  A wine consultant, writer and educator, his vast enological knowledge has been proven time and again through consistently high finishes at International Sommelier competitions.  His dashing personality and skill with the pen make him a personal favourite of mine.  For that reason, I was slightly starstruck to receive an email from Zoltan wishing to try our wines. Casting jitters aside, I had him try our current Five Rows portfolio.  Here are his thoughts:

“The wines are clean, varietally really accurate, honestly-made, not ambitious nor over-blown stylistically speaking, all natural with unmistakable signs of the love of land and winemaking passion.”

2008 Pinot Gris Five Rows, Lowrey Vineyards, St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula VQA

Tastefully done package, some label descriptors are hand-written, also indicating the exact count of the bottle you are tasting, in this case the 112th. The colour has a tiny tint of cooper, characteristic of the grape. Aromas of white peach and pear, white blossoms and spice. Medium bodied with slight oily texture, sweet white summer fruit and orange toffee-nutty flavours, and a pretty long star anise, mineral-accented finish. 57 cases produced. $25.

4 stars out of 5.

2008 Sauvignon Blanc Five Rows, Lowrey Vineyards, St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula VQA

Lime, kiwi, lemon tree blossom bouquet. Light and fresh over the palate with savoury fruit and mineral flavors and the finish brings along very pleasant honeydew melon nuances. A delicate Sauv Blanc here, perfect with pure, Willapa Bay Kumamoto oysters. 64 cases produced.

4 stars out of 5.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Five Rows, Lowrey Vineyards, St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula VQA

Classic, old world-style Cab Sauv with aromas and flavours of blueberries, plums, currants, white pepper, tobacco and underlying scorched earth and gamey notes that I seem to find in many of St. David’s Bench reds. Medium plus bodied and dry with soft, melted-in tannins and with neat accents of boysenberries, tar-bitter chocolate and herbaceous finish. Drinking very well right now. 45 cases produced.

4 + stars out of 5.

You can read Zoltan’s blog and find more of his reviews at zoltanszabo.org.

Christmas Packaging

Just a couple of quick Five Rows announcements as we head into the Holiday season.  First off, we’ve added our three newest releases to the bottle registry section of the website.  I would like to make a personal request to all those who have recently enjoyed a bottle to please share your comments.   This will help a great deal as I decide stylistically which way to go with upcoming vintages.

We’ll be open for the next two weekends (December 12-13 & 19-20) before concluding our weekend retail hours until Cuvee in February (19-21).  As always, we are happy to see visitors at any time over the winter by appointment.  For those looking to find the perfect holiday gift, my mother has been busy putting together special Christmas packaging and thus far it’s been a big hit.   Please call or email soon if you’d like a case delivered by Christmas.  I’d be happy to personalize the box label, just let me know.

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Sauvignon Blanc:

Crafting aromatic white wines requires good fruit, patience and above all temperature control!  In small wineries like ours we aren’t afforded the luxury of temperature-controlled tanks to aid in maintaining the ideal fermentation conditions.   Instead, my barrels of 2008 Sauv Blanc went on a merry-go-round tour of our barn for about a month until ferment was over.  First outside to settle after pressing, then inside to warm for yeast inoculation, quickly into the cold room as the the ferment really starts to rock, back out of the cold room to finish-up as yeast start to become stressed, finally back into cold room at 4 Celsius to stop ferment at the desired sugar-acid balance.

I decided to use a yeast called X5 for this wine because it boasts to “help reveal varietal aromas rich in citrus, boxtree and tropical fruit while contributing light fresh floral notes”.  In the early stages it was apparent that X5 was the right choice.   I was impressed with the  lychee and pineapple aromatics that got stronger with each successive day.  There was still some classic cool-climate Sauv Blanc citrus (lime zest) detectable as well, with hints of vanilla, fig and flint.  The use of older French oak barrels was most evident on the palate, softening the edges of this zesty wine. Bottled on September 14th, 2009.

Cases: 64                   Alcohol:  12.0%              Price: $25/bottle

A Great View

 

Lead up to harvest is a time of frayed nerves and long hours.  In many cases you are playing a game of chicken with the weather, and usually I’m the first one to flinch.  I get so tied up worrying about making the right decision that I rarely stop to enjoy the moment.  That would soon change.

Earlier this week we harvested our first fruit of the year, and as I stood awaiting a load of fruit atop the bins of the receival truck, I was struck by the view.  From this vantage point I was overwhelmed by imagery and memories.  The stress of harvest suddenly melted away and the bigger picture came into focus.  The green rows of vines looked resplendent contrasted against the fall colours adorning the trees.  A harvester slowly chugged its way down a row of Sauvignon Blanc, driven by one of my early childhood heroes – “Big Ernie”.  When I was just old enough to remember, Ernie let me ride with him on the big harvester, a memory I will forever cherish.  I also suddenly recalled the time my Grandfather fell from the exact position I currently stood, landing hard on the road below.  Miraculously he wasn’t seriously hurt.  I made a point be extra careful negotiating the narrow bins for the rest of the day!

Huddled around a thermos of coffee were my father and “ever-ready-with-baked-goods” mother, Rob the Creekside winemaker, John our truck driver, and Henry the tote bin driver.  It really put my stress and worries in perspective to see the interaction of these people who had been through so many vintages together.  They laughed and exchanged stories from the old days of Ventura’s and Concord’s, then debated some of the more heated issues facing our industry today.  Their collective experience both humbled and inspired me.  At the root of our farm and it’s history are people like them…people like me.  Crops come and go, weather is always going to be a problem, wine will be made and sold, but the tradition and land lives on.  From my perch I smiled and wished some moments could last forever.

Better Late than Never

Just when you thought mother nature had rendered 2009 a complete write-off…she goes and TOTALLY redeems herself!  The last couple of weeks could not have been more ideal for ripening grapes.  We are by no means out of the woods yet in our task of ripening later varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, but things are definitely looking up.

Sugar samples that I conducted today confirmed what I’ve been tasting for the last few days, the early varieties are sweet and ripening in a hurry!  Pinot Gris leads the way at 20.1 degrees Brix, while the Pinot Noir are sitting at 18.7 and the Sauvignon Blanc at 18.0.  That puts us roughly two to three weeks away from the commencement of harvest, should the weather hold.

I want to take an opportunity to thank both Glen Hunt and Randy Hemphill of Hunter Bottling and the good folks at Creekside for helping us bottle our 2008 whites this past Saturday.  Glenn and Randy provided the mobile line while Creekside lent us their facility and some elbow grease.  Our wines went into bottle without a hitch and should be ready for release in a couple of weeks.  Thanks to all for a job well done!

New Release Update

 

With harvest approaching quicker than I’d like, the pressure is on to clear the tanks and make room for the 2009’s.  I can now report that our 2008 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris will be bottled on September 14th, making the tentative release date around September 28th. Generally, I like to let the wines adjust to life in bottle for a couple of weeks prior to release, just to make sure they get all their kicking and screaming out.

In related news, we’re down to the last few cases of 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, so the timing of this release should work out just about right.  After 18 long months spent maturing in bottle, our 2005 Cab Sauv is drinking well and ready to debut alongside the 2008 whites.

It occurs to me that we’ve never really had a “Grand Opening” for our winery, and I guess that’s just not our style.  Instead, we’ve decided to celebrate our new release with all the people who have generously supported us since our inception.  We’ll be emailing the details of this intimate event to those on our mailing list in the coming weeks, so keep an eye on your inbox!

Lucy patiently awaits the New Release…

 

A New Place to Taste

 

We are thrilled to announce that two of our wines (2004 Cabernet Sauvignon & 2007 Sauvignon Blanc) are now available at The Stone Road Grille in Niagara-on-the-Lake.  “Rest” is a great supporter of local wines and consistently spoils its patrons with the finest of culinary delights to pair with them.  In fact, some of my most memorable dining experiences were enjoyed at the Grille.

On a bittersweet note, we are now sold out of our 2007 Pinot Gris.  A winemaker knows (hopes!)  this day will come, but it always feels a little sad to know that this lot is gone for good.  A business like ours doesn’t allow you to get sentimental though,  as the next vintage is never too far away.

www.stoneroadgrille.com

Bottling Quandry

 

One large hurdle that a small winery must overcome is figuring out the best way to bottle their wine.  The simple act of getting the wine into the bottle can frustrate even the most seasoned of winemakers.  Larger wineries can usually  justify purchasing a bottling line based on their projected cash flow and volume of wine produced.  For us, however, this is a bit of a grey area that thankfully presents a few options.

In the midst of this busy vineyard season, bottling wine is about the last thing I want think about.  My initial plan was to bottle our 2008 whites late in the summer, but due to the popularity of our 2007 Pinot Gris (only 12 cases left) we are mulling over the “good” problem of having to move that date up a bit.  In the past, our bottling runs were done by the seat of our pants in conjunction with the good folks at Creekside.  Once my wines were ready I was able to white-knuckle them over the QEW in the back of our truck to the “trusty” old Creekside bottling line.  Held together with enough duct tape to make even Red Green jealous, that line bore witness to its fair share of tears, shonks and damn good wine before being retired last year.

Another option we are looking into is the mobile bottling line, essentially everything you need in the back of a semi-trailer.  Hook up your hose to one end of the trailer and packaged wine magically appears from the other end.  Convenience aside, I’m still not convinced that this is the most cost effective method for small runs like ours (50-100 cases). It would be ideal if all our wines, white and red, were ready at the same time and I could hire the mobile line to bottle them in one day, but that will likely never be the case.

Due to the success of our unfiltered 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, I plan to experiment with more unfiltered products in future releases.  It’s risky, but I think a few unfiltered cases of each wine is doable.  As long as our customers bear with us, I’m willing to give it a shot.  Given this, I suppose it’s possible to manually bottle small amounts of wine the old fashion way.  Wouldn’t that be fun?  No one says you have to bottle your wine all at once.  You could call in your order in the morning and I would bottle it fresh from the barrel that afternoon.  The next day you wake up and it’s on your front step,  just like the milk man!  Perhaps a little pie in the sky but you never know…