2023 Pinot Noir

2023 Pinot Noir

Sometimes I feel like my life is not measured in years, but in Pinot vintages.  For those curious, one Pinot vintage is roughly equivalent to seven human years, and to that end 2023 might be the year I finally felt my age, in Pinot years.

A great deal of effort went into keeping things on the rails during the tumultuous summer of 2023, but a stabilizing September proved to be the stroke of luck we needed to salvage our early varietals.  Many consecutive warm, dry days and subsequent cool nights allowed for an extended ripening window and a rare October harvest for St. David’s Bench Pinot Noir.

The 2023 Pinot would be the first fruit to benefit from the use of a new destemmer, nicknamed “Red October”, which was better equipped to gently remove whole, intact berries from the stems than our less discretionary older model.  Sourcing the right destemmer for a winery our size sent me on a journey to many different wine regions, until I happened upon a promising classified ad featuring this specific unit.  It was located in Oregon, and upon inquiry the winemaker revealed that she was sad to part with it, but their winery had outgrown its capabilities.

“What it lacks in speed, it makes up for in delicacy,” she said.  “Well, hell,” I replied, “that may as well be the Five Rows motto – sold!”  And with that, the hunt for Red October was finally over.

My longtime dream of more whole berries in my fermentations was now a reality.  The benefits of extracting intact berries versus a more crushed-up maceration are numerous; and it’s one of the reasons that some winemakers even opt for 100% whole cluster fermentations with stems included.  I’ve experimented with various levels of whole cluster inclusion in our Pinot fermentations over the years, but feel that anything over 10% isn’t really beneficial.  The condition and maturity of the stems is a factor here, but my ideal bin would be 10% whole clusters and the rest destemmed.

Whole berries obviously lead to more intracellular fermentation, which promotes lower temperatures and delayed sugar release.  This encourages a slightly stressed fermentation (not a bad thing) and enhanced texture through increased glycerol production.  The result can be a partial carbonic maceration which helps preserve the quality of the fruit, delicacy of texture and capacity to age.  Whole berry fermentations have also been shown to build savoury characters and complexity, and in some “big” Pinot Noir appellations it can add structure without adding coarseness or bitterness.

It took me a while to dial in the conveyer and roller speeds, but before long the beautiful berries were gently rolling down the chutes into the bins.  The fermentations started spontaneously after a five day cold soak, and were noticeably cooler and slower in progression, just as I had hoped.  In total, the fruit remained on the skins for seventeen days before gentle pressing, settling and then racking to barrels (17% new oak).

The 2023 Pinot Noir is a product of diligent vineyard strategy, favourable September weather and the willingness to experiment with something new.  Aromatically, we are talking Bing cherry, cranberry and red licorice with very subtle mushroom notes almost hidden amongst the vibrant fruit.  The refined tannins and smooth overall texture are what separates this wine from previous vintages at the same stage of evolution.  Enjoy this wine now or stash it away for the next couple of Pinot years.

2025 Sauvignon Blanc

2025 Sauvignon Blanc

Inauspicious is the word that comes to mind when I recall the start to the 2025 vintage.  Conditions were wet and cool that Spring, belying the remainder of the growing season we were about to experience.  There would be heat, drought stress and agonizing decisions ahead.

The summer of 2025 proved to be a very dry one in St. David’s, with many potential rain events just passing by to the north or south of our farm.  Our position relative to the Niagara Escarpment plays a major role in the precipitation patterns we experience, and that summer it seemed to act as a point of divergence for fronts approaching from the west.  There comes a point in drier years (2007, 2010, 2012, 2016, 2020) where vineyard mangers must make the call if and when to irrigate.  Is the dry stretch just a blip?  Can you afford to let vines stress a little?  Will too much water negatively effect the wine?  Questions abound.

The decision to irrigate is not one that is made lightly, lest anyone think that it just involves turning on a tap whenever you desire.  On our farm it’s a multi-step process that has evolved to feel like a plan of last resort.  Likely, the pump and pipes haven’t been used for a few years, so the first step is locating the equipment and extricating it from the overgrowth.  When the pump inevitably won’t start, new parts are ordered and you re-consult the Weather Network in an effort to will some rain your way.

Once you are finally set to irrigate, the water level in the creek must be checked and it can only be done on your legally designated day of the week to pull water from the source.  With all systems go you fire up the pump and, by the grace of god, it turns over!  Joy is short lived, however, as multiple leaks sequentially spring from the long line of pipes evoking the fountains of Bellagio.  Maybe it will rain tomorrow, after all.

On August 19th, 2025, on the precipice of vine shutdown, we got the rain we needed.  Most importantly, it bought us enough time to fix the leaks and irrigate for the rest of the season.  The older Sauvignon Blanc vines within the block were still in decent shape, but the replants and younger vines were in dire need of a drink.  From that point on, we were careful not to water to the point of excess, so as to avoid tight clusters, disease pressure and dilution.

The 2025 Sauvignon Blanc was harvested on September 15th at 21.2 degrees Brix, TA 7.20 g/L and pH 3.27.  Pressed juice was then cool-fermented over 40 days in a combination of neutral oak (88%) and steel tank (12%).  Over time there arose a tantalizing tropical and citrus medley – you pick the fruit and it’s probably in there.  It comes across luscious and round on the palate, with a hint of ripe fruit sweetness.

In the end, we probably waited a little too long to irrigate our suffering younger vines in 2025, but the intensity this of wine speaks to the upside of risking minor vine stress in mature, deep-rooted vines to pursue peak flavour concentration.

2023 Syrah

2023 Syrah

Syrah is an enigma to me.  If you were to take a poll of wine lovers, it would be far from the most popular Ontario grown Vinifera varietal.  Yet mysteriously, year after year, it proves to be a brisk online seller for us and is usually among the first of our wines to sell out.  Something is afoot here and I think I’ve got an idea.

I am convinced that there is an underground secret society of Syrah lovers in our midst.  I picture them masquerading around wine circles as Gamay enthusiasts to throw people off their scent, but a faint trail of peppery musk betrays this facade.  Hiding in plain sight, brilliant!  There is an assumed risk in just mentioning this theory, but I feel it’s my duty to shed light on this clandestine group and perhaps make an effort to join their ranks, that is providing they’ll have me.  On that note, if I were to disappear sometime this Spring, don’t come looking for me.**

Growing Syrah in a cool climate is an epic, never-ending roller coaster ride filled with twists and turns, peaks and valleys, gradual climbs and steep falls.  It’s unpredictable, if anything, and makes you question the limits of your courage.  For the record, roller coasters make me sick.

With the lowly yields of the previous vintage fresh in our minds, we crossed our fingers as the first Syrah buds of 2023 sprung to life.  The countdown was on to see whether the new trunks we painstakingly established the previous summer were up to the task of supporting vegetative growth.

Early season conditions were ideal and our focus soon shifted to balancing the number of primary shoots on each new trunk.  It can be difficult to summon the aggressiveness required when thinning these vigorous canes, especially the year after a light crop, but the alternative is a crowded and unruly canopy, a serious Syrah faux pas.

The rebound season stretched on through the summer months, with more than adequate precipitation to support the now thriving vines.  It became apparent that we were dealing with a bumper crop of large-berried clusters, so extra attention was paid to achieving proper fruit exposure and cluster spacing to combat fungal growth.  Thankfully, a relatively dry and cool September resulted in clean fruit – for once!

We finally hand-harvested our Syrah on October 27th, a full sixteen days later than the previous vintage.  The fruit was destemmed whole berry into two bins.  Following a three day cold soak, the bins began to ferment and we were off to the races.  The whole berries helped moderate the temperature and extend the fermentation to seven days, with total skin contact time of twelve days.  Both bins were gently pressed and then racked to French oak barrels (20% new) for maturation over the next two years.

The 2023 Syrah is aromatically pure, with components of ripe cherry, blackberry, mocha, vanilla and pepper.  The palate showcases good balance and very supple tannins, perhaps due to the glycerolic texture derived from the whole berry fermentation.  This wine trends toward “drink now” for me, but I will be laying some cases down to explore how it ages over the next decade.

**It occurs to me now that if you are reading these notes you probably are a member of this Syrah Secret Society…my apologies, enjoy your Gamay!

2025 Pinot Gris

2025 Pinot Gris

It came to me one morning, as I was lingering a little longer than necessary in a row of Pinot Gris, that I might be afflicted with the curse of treating all varietals like they are Pinot Noir.  Surely, spending my formative years trying to tame five youthful rows of Pinot Noir alongside my Mom had something to do with this.  Although this behaviour may be appropriate in tight-clustered relatives like Pinot Gris, treating everything like Pinot Noir is not something that I would advise to those wishing to maintain their sanity.

Obsessive attention to details like crop load, fruit exposure, cluster spacing and inner-cluster debris have become normal protocol in our Pinot Gris over the years.  However, I don’t think I could justify the time spent in that vineyard if I was not making my own wine from the fruit.  A more pragmatic grape grower would rightfully scoff at the levels I go to to keep my Pinot Gris clean, but the winemaker in me just can’t help but linger until I’m sure that every rotten berry or potential Botrytis hot spot has been ameliorated.  Maybe the curse lies in being a vineyard-tending winemaker.

Anecdotally, I have noticed more fruit consistency and less disease incidence in our Pinot Gris over the last half decade, much of which can be explained by three consecutive stellar vintages in Niagara.  In fact, even when we’ve experienced Botrytis issues in the neighbouring Sauvignon Blanc, the Pinot Gris have been spared.  To that end, I can confirm that it does not take much evidence to convince a winemaker that a little extra time spent in a vineyard is justifiable if the end results are clean fruit and varietally pure wine.

We harvested our pampered Pinot Gris on September 15th at 22.2 degrees Brix, TA 6.40 g/L and pH 3.36.  The pressed juice was cool fermented in a combination of neutral oak (66%) and steel tank (34%).  The marathon fermentation lasted for 38 days until the wine finally reached a balance point to my palate at a specific gravity of 0.997.  Following bentonite fining for protein stabilization, the wine was allowed to age in barrel and tank for another three months.

The 2025 Pinot Gris features an alluring golden-pink colour developed through a brief period of skin contact post harvest.  The vintage seems to have coaxed out rare aromatic complexity, highlighted by notes of honey, pear, apricot and faint spice.  Upon tasting, the wine shows a rich, velvety texture derived from the barrel fermented portion and resolves into a nicely balanced finish.

2025 Riesling

2025 “Jean’s Block” Riesling

“Talk of mysteries! — Think of our life in nature, — daily to be shown matter, to come in contact with it, — rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks!  The solid earth!  The actual world!  The common sense!  Contact!  Contact!  Who are we?  Where are we?”  Henry David Thoreau

Most days, it’s pretty easy for me to get lost in a vineyard job.  I treasure those tranquil times, as they serve to refresh my self-worth and give me an authentic confidence when speaking to visitors and friends about the wines that I love to make.  Interestingly, some places on the farm are more conducive to deep thought and reflection, and my time spent in Jean’s Block has proven to be especially so.

Working alone in a vineyard, with boots touching the soil, provokes intense feelings of connection to the natural world and humility about our place within it.  Vineyard jobs require constant attention to detail, but ultimately become innate as you progress from vine to vine and row to row.  The true “vinelightenment” occurs when your physical body is still doing the job at a high level of precision, but your mind is free to explore a deeper connection.  For a fleeting moment, I am one with Riesling.

Thoughts turn to how the season will unfold and the stark reality of best laid plans.  There will be Botrytis, oh yes, but now is not the time to let that seep into your consciousness.  Out of nowhere, your physical body is suddenly aware of how hot it is and the task at hand becomes more like actual work.  Thankfully, this is where a self-preserving satisfaction component usually kicks in and you begin to envision how the end product will be improved by the job you are currently doing – so much so that you can almost smell and taste it!

And so goes another quiet day in Jean’s Block.

I don’t know if I could have anticipated the resultant intensity of the 2025 Riesling during those quiet days, but I certainly had hopes.  Dry vintages can be a tricky proposition for growing aromatic whites, with particular attention paid to preserving natural acidity and staving off stress-induced characters.  If you can thread that needle, there is a chance for something concentrated and intense to result.

The 2025 Riesling is a showcase of just that, in the form of apple, pear, elderflower and citrus.  This wine was left slightly off-dry, but possesses sneaky natural acidity to balance the residual sugar.  I truly enjoy crafting the wines from this Clone 49 block of Riesling, as much for the therapeutic process as for the end result.

2021 Pinot Noir

2021 Pinot Noir

The 2021 growing season, and the red wines that resulted, are a study in contrast and perseverance.  In my vintage notes for the 2021 Pinot Noir there is written but one telltale comment, “One of those years.”

As a varietal Pinot Noir presents inherent contradictions.  In the vineyard, it is a grape that requires intense labour, constant attention and a heavy hand, at times, to properly manage the canopy.  In the winery, conversely, I’ve come to learn that restraint, patience and a gentle approach are critical to successfully translating terroir.

So that is why, given the difficult fall conditions of 2021, I took a different attitude toward crafting my Pinot Noir.  Instead of lamenting the breakdown of clusters and writing off the vintage, I took the long view.  Past vintages (and wiser winemaking colleagues than I) have taught me that the final sprint to cut out all of the rotten clusters and berries is not the end of the game, but actually just the end of the first half.  I’ve been witness to many great late-game comebacks in my life, mostly against my rooting interest, but this could represent a moment of redemption!

So it was with guarded optimism that we harvested our Pinot Noir on September 21st, surely to get them off before the next imminent downpour.  The ripening parameters were to my liking, but the field was soaked and my time was limited to cull out as much rot as possible prior to the handpick.  I conjured up my best Edward Scissorhands, minus the Johnny Depp looks, and set to work.

Once the fruit was picked, sorted and gently destemmed into one tonne bins, they were sealed for a four-day cold soak.  It is normally my hope that the wild fermentations would kick off right after the fourth day, but that is rarely the case.  Thankfully, in this instance the stars seemed to align and when I cracked the bin lids on day four, I was greeted with a nice firm cap of skins and whole berries and the wonderful smells of a burgeoning fermentation.  We were off to the races; the comeback was afoot!

Indigenous yeast fermentations can be a wild ride at times, but those driving the 2021 Pinot bins were models of consistency and aromatic beauty. Must temperatures hovered around 20C and peaked at 32C, and the bins were dry in seven days.

The bins were lightly pressed, then racked into five French oak barrels.  This is where the restraint and patience are put into practice.  Aside from the odd tasting session and biannual racking, there is not much to do over the next two years providing the wines are sound.

The final barrel tasting and blending sessions are the make or break moment when everything is on the line.  So many combinations, so many possibilities, it can send your mind in many different directions.  Some wines, however, present clarity in those moments and that was the case for the 2021 Pinot.  It ended up being “one of those years” when the cooperage variables of barrel age, forest, grain tightness and toast level all line up in sync with the wine.  The result is a wine that stars the terroir, while the oak and the winemaker play the supporting role.

Sometimes you just have to trust that the vineyard can be the hero in the end.

2023 Sauvignon Blanc

2023 Sauvignon Blanc

As the first buds of 2023 started to push from their winter cocoons, the countdown was on to see whether the fickle new trunks we painstakingly established the previous summer were up to the task of supporting vegetative growth.  It was a nervous, yet fascinating time to observe the delicate first spring growth of a Sauvignon Blanc grapevine.

We didn’t have to wait long.  The one thing about young trunks (young anything for that matter) is that they are vigorous and impatient.  Two years’ worth of underutilized nutrient supply awaited the voracious and deep roots of these vines.  Early season conditions were very conducive to growth, so much so that efforts were soon undertaken to balance the number of primary shoots on each new trunk.  It can be difficult to summon the aggressiveness required when thinning these vigorous canes, especially the year after a light crop, but the alternative is a crowded and unruly canopy – no thanks!

The rebound season stretched on through the summer months, with more than adequate precipitation to support the now thriving vines.  It became apparent that we were dealing with a bumper crop of large-berried clusters, so extra attention was paid to achieving proper fruit exposure and cluster spacing to combat fungal growth.  Thankfully, a relatively dry and cool September resulted in super-clean fruit.  The deficit in precipitation seemed to dilute the water status in the berries to the point where the intensity of flavours was more noticeable in the week leading up to harvest.

We chose to harvest our bountiful crop of Sauvignon Blanc on September 25th, and ended up with about 2300L of juice after the press cycle.  After cold-settling the juice, it was racked into eight French oak barrels (80%) and one tank (20%).  The barrels were of varying ages (2-15 years) and mostly neutral in their tannic contribution.

The vessels were warmed to 20°C and then inoculated with X5 yeast.  Once fermentations were established, the barrels were cooled to 8°C for about two weeks, then allowed to warm again to finish.  I find that pushing the lower end temperature limits of the yeast tends to maximize the aromatic intensity.  One must be cautious, however, not to overly stress the yeast – it’s a fine line!

The finished wine represents an amalgam of all the terroir-derived elements that Sauvignon Blanc enthusiasts would come to expect.  It is less overtly opulent than the light-crop 2022 vintage, putting it more in line with a typical vintage like 2019 or 2021.  Aromatically, there is an intense intermingling of tropical and citrus characters, with some typical Sauv Blanc gooseberry present as well.  The TA for this wine is 7.9 g/L, which balances well with the 8 g/L of residual sugar and contributes to noticeable length on the palate.

This wine evokes a personal feeling of satisfaction and thankfulness, born out of the travails of re-establishing a beloved vineyard.  Perhaps that is why I enjoy it so much.  I hope this feeling of rejuvenation and joy is perceptible to all those that give it a try.

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon

Tasting through Cabernet Sauvignon barrels early in their evolution can be a mouth-puckering challenge.  The tannins at this stage tend to be bold and chewy, often times completely masking the subtle nuance of flavours.  You are comforted in the knowledge that there is ample time for correction, with a full 24-30 months spent in barrel, but it is still a little disconcerting.

I can’t imagine having to make blending or culling decisions prior to that timeframe because I’ve seen so many “late” mouthfeel transformations during the last few months in barrel.  Obviously, the tannic profile of the fruit and the oak strategy employed have a lot to do with those transformations, but it is definitely something I track in the wines made from our older blocks of Cab Sauv.

Enter our new planting of Clone 191 Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2021 vintage marked the first fruit we were able to harvest from that 14-row, 2019 planting.  There is a certain first crop mythology that floats about in wine circles that I’ve always been skeptical of.  It goes that wine made from a first crop can be magical and mature beyond its years, then the field usually goes through some growing pains before finding itself again and establishing consistency.

In early barrel sampling sessions, the Clone 191 wine was noticeably smoother and had more discernable ripe red fruit flavours than the older block Clone 169 wine.  So much so, that I was starting to become a believer in the whole first crop myth.  I wouldn’t fully buy in until much later, when I witnessed the emerging dynamic between the two clones in the final blend.  My expectation was that the older block wine would swallow up the new kid and assert its veteran dominance, but a pleasantly harmonious blend arose instead.

Featuring a combination of cherry, wild blackberry, flinty minerality and a subtle floral note; there is also an unforeseen component to the mouthfeel and structure of this Cab that can only be attributed to the new planting.  I will be keen to see how this wine ages.

It’s hard for me not to emotionally personify the Old Block as a humble mentor that realizes its days are numbered and the torch must eventually be passed.  Due to increasing rates of grapevine virus infection (red blotch and leafroll virus), winterkill and old age, our beloved original Cabernet Sauvignon blocks will gradually need to be replaced.  It’s a bittersweet scenario, but it rekindles my excitement to work with new fruit and a yet to be determined potential.  There are also good feelings associated with sustaining the vineyard for the generations to come.

2023 Pinot Gris

 

2023 Pinot Gris

“Strength in Subtlety”

I relish every opportunity I get to craft wine from Pinot Gris grapes.

It was such a disappointment not to have our usual allotment to vinify in 2022.  Being unable to taste and share one of my favourite varietals with our customers was a harsh dose of grape growing reality.

A renewed excitement built up within me as the 2023 growing season unfolded.  Our two distinct Pinot Gris vineyards, one old and one new, showed early signs of life and fruitfulness.  Planted in heavier clay, these vines tend to exhibit stark growth variation depending on water status.  In dry seasons the growth is less vigorous and drought stress is likely, while in wetter years like 2023 the vines can get a little out of control if one is not careful.

Thankfully, I enjoy spending time with my Pinot Gris.  Getting to them early is critical, as they respond well to aptly-timed shoot positioning and leaf removal.  Once cluster spacing is adequately set within the canopy, efforts can turn to routine hedging and exposure.  Cluster and berry size was above average in 2023, making for some tense moments during late summer rain events.

The visual appeal of crimson-hued Pinot Gris clusters adorning green grapevines in September is something one has to witness in person to truly appreciate.  There is almost a mystical sheen to the skins that I’m convinced finds its way into the textural elements of the wine.  Moderate September temperatures and low humidity kept the dreaded botrytis at bay, allowing for gradual flavour accumulation and acid decline within those crimson berries.

In 2023, we were afforded the rare vintage where we could choose a precise harvest date at our leisure, aided by the fact that it would be some of the first non-sparkling fruit to be taken off in the region – i.e. picking crews were ready and waiting!  That beautiful day came on September 25th, with both blocks being harvested, destemmed and pressed.  The juice was sweet and tasty, with 20.5 °Brix of sugars and TA that seemed just right at 7.4 g/L.

Fermentations were encouraged to start wild, taking place in a combination of older French oak (67%) and tank (33%).  The barrels and tank were cooled to 10°C once the fermentations were established, in an effort to stretch out the process for maximal flavour and aroma development.   After 21 days, all vessels were stopped at a specific gravity of 0.998, which equated to about 8.1 g/L of residual sugar.  The wine was aged a further 5 months before blending and bottling.  Total production was 107 cases.

I adore the subtle nature of Pinot Gris.  It will not wow crowds with aromatic intensity like Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, but instead rewards those who are willing to look deeper behind the unassuming facade.  It is both humble and complex, perhaps something many can relate to.  The lovely aromas are an invitation take a sip and experience the true delights that Pinot Gris can offer.

2023 Riesling

 

2023 Riesling

Does Riesling have an image problem?

I’ve heard tale of debates on this controversial topic in recent years, and have been reticent to give my two cents, until now.  I’ve never been one to really care about my own image, but my wines – that’s a different story!

Like anything in life that is abundant, reliable, low maintenance and versatile, Riesling tends to get taken for granted.  Our region is not completely blameless in this oversight, as we’ve come to treat Riesling as a “plateau priced” varietal that is often overcropped and in surplus.

Riesling is a great blending varietal due to its intense aromatics and reliable balancing acidity.  In fact, it may be such a good blender that it has exacerbated the aforementioned issues.  It also tends to be a great value per price point single varietal wine, which can be a double-edged sword, making it relatively easy and inexpensive to find a decent bottle, yet hard to justify paying more to explore single vineyard terroir.

In our experience, Riesling tends to be the slowest seller of our whites each vintage, and I feel strongly that this does not reflect a quality disparity amongst the wines.  The other whites tend to be more niche and get more fanfare, but the Riesling is often my preference.

There is a hidden benefit to the slower Riesling sales, however, in that it’s usually available for tastings in our barn throughout the summer.   In the many tastings I’ve conducted over the years, I would say that Riesling is the wine that tends to get the most surprise reactions from our guests.  Expectations of something sweet and dull or dry and bracing are quickly cast aside.

Niagara Riesling has consistently proven to be a unique take on the varietal and should continue to be celebrated as such.  I encourage people to explore the many different clonal and terroir variations that we can offer throughout our region.  As a grape grower and winemaker, I will continue to treat Riesling with the same reverence and effort that I afford all other noble grape varietals.

2023 “Jean’s Block” Riesling

There is usually a lot of drama and bluster in my yearly recap of vinifying Riesling.  For once, I am extremely grateful to report, that was not the case.  We’re talking drama free, and borderline enjoyable!

In terms of fruit cleanliness, the Riesling we harvested in 2023 stands on its own amongst previous Jean’s Block vintages.  As much as I’d like to take credit for this result, it is 100% due to the lack of late season precipitation and humidity.  Okay, maybe 99%.

Harvest date was October 11, and the pressed juice was cool-fermented with W15 yeast in stainless steel tanks.  Fermentation was slow and steady over 26 days, then stopped at a specific gravity of 1.004 and 10.7% abv.  Total production was 100 cases.

I think the cleanliness of fruit is reflected in the purity of the aromatics.  There are distinct layers of apple, citrus and floral notes.  I always associate Riesling with Springtime in Niagara, as it abounds with freshness and hints of tree fruit blossoms.