Rainy Day, Peace of Mind
As I sit here in the barn on a rainy day in April, find staring at stacks and stacks of unlabelled and unwaxed bottles…I feel a strange sense of calm. With the stresses of bottling now past, I wistfully look forward to the 2013 growing season and the six exciting new wines we’ll soon be introducing to our guests.
In stark contrast to 2012, spring conditions have been consistently cool to this point. That’s just fine with most grape growers, who would rather see their buds emerge slowly from a long winter slumber. Eager buds mean sleepless nights for farmers and especially those in charge of operating wind machines. The week of rain we are currently experiencing is actually much needed to help replenish water tables and soil moisture levels before we’re faced with the rigours of summer heat.
Rainy days are also great for catching up on things like racking, labelling, waxing and for reflecting (i.e. blog writing); like right now when I glance over at my three dogs cuddled up on the floor and find myself smiling, warmed with a happiness bordering on tearful pride. These dogs have come to mean a lot to me, and I consider myself very lucky to be able to bring them to work every day.
The mere fact that I’ve accumulated this fur triumvirate speaks to my personal weakness for saying no to rescue animals (don’t ask how many cats we have). Three dogs can be a handful – especially three of this ilk. They are equal parts cute, crazy and vision impaired. A fixture in the barn, they are usually adored and doted on by our guests. One soon learns, however, that excited dogs, cheese platters and fine stemware don’t mix. Despite their shortcomings, I am fully aware that these three have given me far more than I will ever be able give to them.
A big change is that I’m now forced to take lunch breaks, a rarity prior to their arrival. To be responsible for living creatures has been a wake-up call of sorts, although many times that call comes way too early in the morning in the form of a blood-curdling Nova Scotia Duck Toller scream (Google it). The lighter moments they supply are a welcome distraction from the inevitable hail storms, bottle shock, mildew, rotten Pinot Noir and determined starlings that I always seem to be worrying about. Come to think of it, they even help ward off those pesky starlings! Most importantly they make me stop and enjoy life, for both human and dog years go by way too quickly.
Over the coming weeks I’ll be posting the vinification notes for each of our six new wines and sending out an email order request to all those who’ve left their contact information in our guest book. In the meantime, dedicated followers of this blog are welcome to pre-order any of our 2010 reds or 2012 whites they would like (wes@fiverows.com). They should be ready for pick-up by May 1st.
Treadwell Dinner
Rounding up the family and heading out to a fancy dinner is a foreign experience for many farmers. The Clampett’s…err…Lowrey’s are no exception, and really don’t get out much. My own culinary expertise is limited to impeccably microwaved Michelina’s (down to the second!) and hastily constructed lunchtime wraps.
“Pa”, however, puts me to shame with his mastery of outdoor, open-flame cooking. He is aloof in the kitchen, but can skillet fry just about anything over his gnarled pile of burning grape trunks. I once saw him make perfect toast using welding gloves, a long-handled frying pan and diesel fuel. He ended the show by flipping eggs with a one-iron (he could never hit it anyway).
Suffice it to say, we always jump at the chance to get dolled up and host a civilized Winemaker’s dinner every year at Treadwell’s. Thankfully for the patrons, we are only responsible for bringing the wine. Seriously, we treasure the opportunity to share this annual experience with so many of our supporters. The signed menu, seen below, has become a treasured memento for us, growing in names each year. It’s something we display with pride in our barn and reflect on fondly with many of our guests.
As you can see, this year’s menu was a masterpiece. I can easily recall the distinct flavours of each dish as I write this, a sure sign of a wonderfully skilled kitchen and chef. My compliments to James and the entire staff for the seeming ease at which they managed each course.
Of the wines I tried on this evening, the 2008 Syrah was a highlight for me – perhaps for sentimental reasons. We decided to raid the cellar and bring our last case to share on this appropriate occasion. The smoked duck was an astute pair, picking up on the smoky, earthy and savoury elements of the Syrah. Many commented on how much the flavours and mouthfeel had changed since they last tried it. The classic Syrah pepper, earth and floral elements were still there, but the once subtle dark fruit components had come to the fore both aromatically and on the palate. It leads me to think that this wine is probably best consumed during this exciting time in its evolution (for those who still have a bottle).
The sumptuous “pulled pork” course might have been James’ nod to our participation in the most recent Pigs and Pinot celebration in Healdsburg, California. My parents were thrilled to visit Sonoma and represent Canada at the “Pinot Smackdown”, which they managed to escape without a scratch.
We ended the night with a barrel sample of the 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. I figured this was appropriate given that Sauvignon Blanc is, in many ways, the reason we have forged such a strong relationship with Treadwell’s. The feedback was promising with many not letting me leave without guaranteeing them at least a six-pack.
The 2012 has a ripe nose very reminiscent of the 2010, which makes sense because both were generally warm, dry years. The mouthfeel and flavours were still a work in progress though, following bentonite fining, cold stabilization and possibly ongoing malolacitc fermentation. As with most classy dames she didn’t want to give away all her secrets on the first date!
A heartfelt thanks to all who attended.
Winter Events
We can now announce some details regarding a couple of exciting winter events we have in the works.
Firstly, I am floored by the response to our Treadwell’s Winemaker Dinner on January 26. Based on the turnout to previous dinners, James and I had anticipated the usual 25-30 loyal Five Rows fans who had joined us in the past. However, within a week of the dinner announcement this year it became apparent that we were going to need a bigger boat. The enthusiastic request for seats meant the entire restaurant would have to be closed down to accommodate our ever-expanding group of friends.
What a great night it should be! I’ve had a chance to preview the proposed menu and can report that Stephen and James have outdone themselves yet again. The wines we have chosen to showcase are: 2011 Pinot Gris, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Pinot Noir, 2008 Shiraz and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine. Most of these wines have been sold out for a while, so we had to source them from Wilma’s personal library (it took some convincing). I also plan to bring along a surprise barrel sample, as this was very well received last year. Any requests?
The 25th Anniversary Cuvée Celebration will take place March 1-3rd. In an effort to reflect the nostalgic theme this year, we’ve decided to dip into our library for the Cuvée En Route tasting sessions. Anyone wishing to visit us over that weekend is invited to participate in the first ever Five Rows Pinot Noir vertical tasting, featuring wines from 2007, 2008 and 2009. I hope to collect some useful feedback to better advise those who’ve resisted temptation and continue to age these wines in their cellar. Please email or call if you plan to stop in over the weekend so we can determine how many bottles might be required.
New Year, New Sign
I feel it fitting, in this my 100th blog entry, to festively announce the erection of a new Five Rows roadside sign.
I can hear you all in unison: “Well, it’s about time!”
However, it is not without some sentimental regret that we retire our old red sandwich board. At various times it was stolen, returned, run over, blown over, repainted, amusingly observed by Beppi and cursed by all those who didn’t see it on first pass. A useful (if not reliable) sign it was.
As is evident in the following photographic essay, the beautiful new sign was hung with typical Five Rows grace and ingenuity. I ask anyone working for the Ontario Workplace Safety Insurance Board to kindly avert your eyes. A special thanks to Barry Imber for his fine craftmanship.
I wish you all a Happy New Year and invite you to join us for our third annual Treadwell’s Winemaker Dinner on January 26th, 2013. Wine pairing details coming soon!
Happy Holidays
The relaxing afterglow experienced at the end of a vintage presents a great time to reflect on the many wonderful visitors we’ve hosted over the past year. Some are returnees who’ve come to pick up their treasured order, others stumble upon us while searching for another winery and a few brave souls even traverse unimproved roads determined to reach their destination. It is a testament to every single one of you that our tiny winery has become a pilgrimage for wine lovers from around the world!
It’s easy for us to say we plan to grow by “word of mouth”, but without the right “words” and “mouths” – it just doesn’t work. We thank you for being that “mouth”, a true Five Rows ambassador! All of you have helped to make our tasting room a rewarding place to spend our weekends.
Each year we’ve attempted to make a few more cases of wine to keep up with demands and stretch quantities through to our spring bottling date. Consequently, our production is up to 750 cases in 2012. Thanks to your enthusiasm and generosity we are down to the final 40 cases of both 2009 Pinot Noir and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine – everything else is sold out. Christmas orders and deliveries can still be arranged if you would like.
We look forward to having you taste the 2012 whites and much-anticipated 2010 reds next spring. Expect a release announcement and order request on or around May 1st. As in previous years, we will not have regular weekend retail hours from January through March (apart from Cuvee weekend March 1-3). Appointments can still be arranged anytime. In fact, the barn can get quite lonely over the winter so don’t make yourself a stranger!
“Off With The Cabs!” (and hurry)
Never in my experience as a Viticuluralist has the end of a growing season been so clearly defined. A couple of weeks back I glanced at the long term forecast and didn’t like what I saw. As the resulting “Frankenstorm” began taking shape, the decision to harvest our last fruit of the season on Friday, October 26th was an easy one.
The sunny and warm conditions we experienced that day belied the imminent storm hovering in the Atlantic. We happily snipped clusters and reminisced about the unique season we had just experienced. Unprecedented heat and prolonged periods of drought combined to give us the ripe grapes we now toted to the wagon. Slowly but surely, the five rows I had chosen for our 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon graciously handed us their bounty. As usual, we harvested three rows from our younger Clone 169 Block and two rows from our trusty “Old Block”. I’ve come to appreciate that these two vineyards complement one another very well. I count on the Clone 169 vines for the ripe, dark fruit characters, while the old block always supplies a uniquely elegant structure.
As we set up the crush pad later that afternoon, I was struck by the harmonious way old vintages seem make way for new ones. Just as the 2012 Cab Sauv grapes were processed into bins in the back of the barn, the last few cases of 2009 Cab Sauv were making a hasty exit out the front door! The interior floor space freed up by these case sales was much needed for the incoming bins. A second example arises as the 2012 Shiraz finishes fermentation. It would need to be pressed soon, meaning the 2010 Shiraz must be racked out of barrel and blended, so the wood can be re-used to house the pressed 2012’s. This poetic cycle appeals to my love of order and flow – one in, one out. The fact that 2010 and 2012 were very similar growing seasons deepens the bond between these two wines that now share both lineage and cooperage.
I would like to thank all the people who have braved the wet weather to pay us a visit over the busy months of harvest. I apologize to those “first-timers” who came at a time when our once plentiful stacks were now gone or critically low. We do still have limited quantities of 2009 Pinot Noir and 2009 Cab Sauv Icewine available, and we plan to stay open for tastings until Christmas. Please stop in if you have a chance.
Cheers to a great vintage!!
2009 Pinot Noir Review – Spotlight Toronto
Five Rows would like to sincerely thank Mike Di Caro and Suresh Doss of Spotlight Toronto for visiting our winery last week and relating our story to their readers. Mike’s article appeared in the popular “30 Days on Wine” feature that we look forward to every year. You can read it here.
Kind words during the grueling harvest are always welcome – Thanks guys!
Mother Nature or Winemaker’s Nurture?
The last couple of weeks saw a flurry of action at our family vineyard. The “perfect” summer of 2012 ended with a stretch of wet weather that spawned nervous moments and tough decisions. Looking back, I probably worried more than I should have (what’s new) because the fruit hung on wonderfully through the intense downpours and resultant humidity. In a nine day span we were able to harvest all of our Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. It’s rare that all four of these varietals mature within such a short window. Perhaps that is what we will remember most when we enjoy the wines of 2012, just how early and quickly everything ripened. Even the later varietals taste like they are not too far off – a very exciting prospect!
As I fall into my daily ritual of fermentation checks (specific gravity, temperature and taste), I ponder whether this may be my favourite time to be a winemaker. I enjoy the solemnity of this stage, the wines are mine and mine alone. It won’t be long until I share them with my friends, but for now they are mine to protect and nurture. Each day there are surprises and letdowns, comebacks and revelations, but most of all there is respect for a process that I did not invent, nor will I ever perfect. I will only get so many chances to do this in my lifetime.
I used to feel pressure at this stage to repeat past successes, but now I know that it is a foolish pursuit. The wines will be what they were destined to be the moment the grapes were clipped from the mother vine. The job of the farmer is what crafts these wines. Sure, I control the fermentation with choice of yeast, temperature and nutrition, but I can no longer impact the natural elements of the harvested grape. It is those natural elements, supplied by the Terroir, that make a wine special.
I hold out high hopes for these young wines as they bubble their way through fermentation. The Pinot Noir is particularly intriguing this year. The aromatics are so intense! There are few things I enjoy more than punching down a bin of actively fermenting Pinot. It is a grunt at times, but also very therapeutic and mesmerizing (according to Wilma). Your entire year’s work reduced down to a single vessel of beautiful aromas and colours. As I said, a good time to be a winemaker.
The Wine That Almost Wasn’t
We are in the midst of a summer for the ages – and that’s all I’m willing to say at the moment. I will spare the superlatives in an effort not to tempt fate. So much can (and probably will) go wrong between now and the end of harvest. Suffice it to say we are mere days away from taking in the first of our fruit. That’s silly early!
While experiencing these ideal conditions I like to reminisce about years when we weren’t so fortunate. I remember well the late, cool and wet summer of 2009. Conditions were optimal for the early varieties, but proved a serious challenge for ripening Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. We thinned down to ridiculous levels (a few bunches per vine) but the acid levels in the grapes remained very high in both varieties. I clearly remember making the sad decision not to harvest any of this fruit for our Five Rows wines. It was decided to sell the Shiraz to another winery and hang the Cab Sauv for Icewine. Before the Icewine nets went up, my ever optimistic Mother made the suggestion to go through our Cab Sauv blocks and select only the ripest of bunches in an effort to salvage a couple barrels worth of fruit. Every ounce of winemaker in me screamed no, but how could I say no to Wilma? The next day we set out to do our tedious selective picking.
So begins the tale of our 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon or as I like to call it “The wine that almost wasn’t”. This elegant wine is now for sale in our barn, which is a minor miracle based on how many times it was written off.
It was intensely aromatic from the get go, but took 30 months in some magical old barrels to achieve it’s current mouthfeel, structure and flavour profile. During those 30 months in my beloved (but soon to be retired) 2002 Gillet barrels, this wine was always an afterthought. In fact, I even looked into selling it as bulk a couple of times just to get it out of the barn. Fortunately, there were no takers. Sometime around the two year mark spent in barrel, things began to change and those two black sheep began to get my attention. I found myself tasting them at least once a week, just to make sure I wasn’t going nuts. I began to feel that this 2009 Cab could actually one day don a Five Rows label. My first thought was to use it as a silent partner with our 2010 Cab, but the blending trials flopped. I proceeded to try a Shiraz/Cab Sauv blend, but that idea was also eventually nixed.
The resilient 2009 Five Rows Cabernet Sauvignon had managed to dodge every bullet I could muster. There was no other option than to let it rightfully stand on its own. I now consider this wine to be a secret bonus for those open-minded oenophiles who don’t practice vintage discrimination. There are people who will never try this wine simply because it was made in 2009. That just leaves more for the rest of us. This Cab is texturally gorgeous and delivers classic Lowrey Cab Sauv aromatics (blackberry, cherry, cassis) and wonderful balance that literally appeared out of nowhere. 50 cases were bottled on April 6th, 2012. It will be fun to compare and contrast this wine with the big bombers on the horizon (2010 and 2012).
Library Update
This is a Five Rows Library update for those who are still cellaring our 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon:
Bottle #535 (only 30 bottles left in the collection)
Date Consumed: July 7th, 2012
Setting: Our annual trip up north to Hurricane Point on Pigeon Lake for a quick summer recharge session. A beautiful Bobcaygeon sunset prelude to a night of fishing and Texas Poker.
Occasion: Celebrating a ferocious Muskie encounter the previous evening – “Son…I think we’re gonna need a bigger net”
Meal: Steve’s Famous Chicken Chili
Musical Accompaniment: Cuff the Duke – “Listen to your Heart”
Conversation: Old times at the cottage and Bella’s swimming prowess
2005 Five Rows Cabernet Sauvignon: Have not visited this vintage for a couple of years. Aromatics have intensified tremendously and include ripe Burbank plum, black currant jam, vanilla and mocha. I’m most pleased with how the tannins have softened and matured since we last indulged. I’ve always felt like this Cab needed time to reach it’s full potential, now my patience has been realized. It was a pleasure to drink. Perceptible flavours include candied cherry, red licorice, mocha and vanilla bean. It’s hard for me to advise people not to consume this wine right now, but I believe it still has some life to live yet.
