Back in the fall, we were visited by St. Catharines Standard photographer Bob Tymczyszyn on a few occasions over the course of harvest. The images he shot and subsequent article he wrote can be read here.
I will be forever grateful to Bob for capturing some special moments I enjoyed harvesting Syrah with my Mom and pressing Cab Sauv with my Dad. These are times I cherish, yet can’t truly appreciate until I see them through the eyes of someone creative like Bob.
I’d like to thank Rick VanSickle for including us in his latest article “The Fantastic Four: Exciting New Niagara Wineries That Are Setting The Bar For Excellence”.
It’s especially satisfying when someone takes the time to thoughtfully share the way we’ve chosen to craft and present our wines. Rick has been a great supporter of Five Rows since we first opened back in 2008. To hear him describe the unique manner in which my mother entertains her guests makes me happy and proud. Rarely does a week go by wherein I don’t receive a heartfelt thank-you note from someone who has been introduced to our wines by Wilma. I’m a very lucky Winemaker (and son).
To be featured alongside Kevin and Thomas is a fun coincidence, as our journeys have been somewhat intertwined. It was back in 2002 that Kevin and I worked together at Creekside Estate Winery, a formative time when pie-in-the-sky dreams of starting our own wineries were just taking shape. We spent many days discussing those future plans while working side by side in the very Queenston Road vineyard he now uses for his wonderful 2027 Cellars Pinot Noir. Thomas discovered the Lowrey Vineyard while tasting some of the early Inniskillin Alliance Pinot Noir’s that we were fortunate to be a part of. As mentioned in the article, he now sources fruit from our old Pinot block for his Bachelder series of wines.
One decision a winemaker is faced with as a wine evolves is whether they are making that wine for now or for the future. Variables such as the amount of time spent in barrel, new or previously used oak, French or American oak, health tannin level, acidity and pH all must be addressed. It is where experience really comes into play, as the decisions you make now may lead to the wine being tougher to enjoy in the short term, but hopefully pay dividends later on.
Then there are rare wines like the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon that are enjoyable now while also exhibiting good aging potential. These wines can make winemakers look very clever, but are probably the easiest to craft. The fruit comes in ripe and clean with ideal parameters and the fermentations go exactly according to plan. After many years of dealing with devilish Pinot Noir, this is a welcome luxury!
The 2010 Cab Sauv was harvested on October 28th and 29th. If we push it, Howie, Wilma and I can hand-harvest and process about 1.5 to 2 tonnes in a day. We normally tackle the Clone 169 block first, then bring in the Old Block Cab on day two. It’s always a relief to get through these two days as the Cab Sauv is the last variety we harvest each year. Needless to say, we slept in on October 30th.
70 picking boxes were harvested from rows 4 and 13 in the Clone 169 Block and 78 boxes from rows 5 and 8 in the Old Block. Following a four-day cold soak, the two bins of fruit were inoculated and warmed to start fermentation. Two yeasts were chosen to work with the specific strengths of each vineyard. The slightly riper Clone 169 fruit was fermented with FX10, known to retain polyphenolic potential (structure and colour), release and bind polysaccharides, and aid in the expression of terroir through minimal “fermentation odour” production. The Old Block was inoculated with CSM, a yeast that specializes in producing intense aromatic profiles of berries, spice and licorice, while concurrently reducing vegetal aromas. A winemaker can only hope that these yeasts live up to such bold claims!
Finished wines were racked to four barrels: Clone 169 to a new Taransaud and two-year-old Billon; Old Block to a two-year-old Taransaud and five-year-old DAMY. Through the years I’ve found that Taransaud barrels do magic for my Cab Sauv. They have a way of “framing” the fruit components of the wine, while contributing just the right amount of oak spice and wood tannin. I usually opt for a tight grain oak, medium toast level with three years of air drying to balance the longer time our red wines spend in barrel. After 24 months in oak, the 2010 Five Rows Cabernet Sauvignon was blended and allowed to bulk age in a tank for five more months. 103 cases were bottled on March 26, 2013. This wine is now available for purchase.
Aromas: blueberry, cherry, Stanley prune, mint
Palate: soft tannin, ripe cherry, savoury mouthfeel/flavour
Cellaring: I personally enjoy drinking this wine now (call it winemaker bias), but it should really be cellared for at least another six months. It has the tannin and structure to age and improve for many years to come, I prefer not to put a limit on it.
Price: $50/bottle
Alcohol: 13.3%
Is it a Shiraz or is it a Syrah? The debate over the name of this wine has played out numerous times around our tasting table since we released our first one back in 2008. That 2008 “Shiraz” was a hit with our friends, but most agreed it was more reminiscent of a “Syrah” in style.
I get a kick out of this debate because it brings me nostalgically back to the origins of this grape in our vineyard. We planted Shiraz Clone 100 back in the late 90’s at the request of Creekside Estate Winery, who were bravely setting out to turn Shiraz into a key part of their varietal portfolio and winery identity. Fueled by the knowledge and vision of an enterprising Australian winemaker, Marcus Ansems, my parents agreed to plant the 11 rows of Shiraz that now stand tall along our driveway, across from Wilma’s lavender.
Upon planting, we quickly found out that these vines loved to grow! They shot up like the most vigorous of weeds, making us wonder why few farmers had attempted to grow this grape variety in Niagara before. The first cold winter would provide us the harsh answer to that question.
Just as the vines were starting to mature and bear their first fruit, we were hit with some cold winter conditions that killed nearly half the vines in our new Shiraz vineyard. The Achilles heel of this fast-growing, high-cropping varietal was now all too clear. Should we replant the vineyard or wash our hands with Shiraz altogether? This was a tough call, but in the end we decided to give it one more shot. Thankfully, the winters have been more co-operative since then and we’ve also learned a few tricks in the vineyard to help the vines overwinter better. We switched from a Scott-Henry training system to a more simple, two-arm pendelbogen trellis. More attention was paid to controlling vine vigour through soil nutrition and cropping levels. The vines performed well enough to merit planting 8 more rows of a second Australian Shiraz Clone (#7) in soil with higher clay content to aid in vine development. Both blocks are doing well to this day.
Due to the success of these Shiraz vineyards on our farm and the legitimacy brought to the varietal by Creekside (think luscious Broken Press Shiraz…mmmm!) it was a no-brainer that I would order a large run of labels adorned with “Shiraz” for my 2008 debut. However, as it came time to blend my 2008 Shiraz – the jammy, hot (high-alcohol) and bold notes present in all of our favourite Aussie “critter” wines were nowhere to be found! In fact, every time I sampled these barrels I felt as if I had just tacked up a horse and ridden through a fragrant lavender field, only to suddenly realize I was surrounded by blackberry bushes and Marijuana plants (for the record this has never happened…yet). Alas, despite what thousands of freshly printed labels now proclaimed, my first Shiraz had just become a Syrah – and I didn’t mind one bit!
A second issue with growing Shir..I mean Syrah in a cool climate is that it tends to ripen very late in the season, making it a challenge to vinify in lackluster, “shorter” growing seasons like 2009. For that reason we decided not to attempt a Syrah in 2009 as the acidity levels never seemed right for crafting a premium wine.
The opposite was true for 2010. It will be remembered as one of the warmest vintages Niagara has ever seen. The growing season started early and never slowed down. Precipitation was spotty but adequate – just perfect for wine grapes. We harvested the Syrah on October 11, much earlier than any other vintage. Sugar levels hit an all-time high (24°Brix) and the skins and seeds showed excellent maturity. Three rows were selected from the older Clone 100 block (#2,9,10) along with two rows from the younger Clone 7 block (#4,8).
The fruit was de-stemmed into bins, which were then sealed for a four-day cold soak on the skins. Fermentations were allowed to start wild, then inoculated with a yeast known as “Enoferm Syrah” (an isolate from the Côtes du Rhône in France). It was chosen for this ripe fruit because it’s known to be a good glycerol producer for smoother mouthfeel with typical aromas including violets, raspberries, cassis, strawberries and black pepper. Fermentations lasted about 8 days with temperature peaks around 28°C. I could tell early on that this wine would one day be something special!
Five barrels were filled following pressing. The Clone 7 fruit was racked to a new Taransaud barrel and a two-year-old Billon, while the Clone 100 fruit was split between two older French and one American oak barrel. The wine was allowed to mature in oak for 24 months. We bottled 118 cases of this Syrah on March 26th, 2013. This wine, along with all of our 2010 reds, is now available for purchase.
Price: $50/bottle
Alcohol: 13.4%
Cellaring: 3-5 years
As I sit here in the barn on a rainy day in April, find staring at stacks and stacks of unlabelled and unwaxed bottles…I feel a strange sense of calm. With the stresses of bottling now past, I wistfully look forward to the 2013 growing season and the six exciting new wines we’ll soon be introducing to our guests.
In stark contrast to 2012, spring conditions have been consistently cool to this point. That’s just fine with most grape growers, who would rather see their buds emerge slowly from a long winter slumber. Eager buds mean sleepless nights for farmers and especially those in charge of operating wind machines. The week of rain we are currently experiencing is actually much needed to help replenish water tables and soil moisture levels before we’re faced with the rigours of summer heat.
Rainy days are also great for catching up on things like racking, labelling, waxing and for reflecting (i.e. blog writing); like right now when I glance over at my three dogs cuddled up on the floor and find myself smiling, warmed with a happiness bordering on tearful pride. These dogs have come to mean a lot to me, and I consider myself very lucky to be able to bring them to work every day.
The mere fact that I’ve accumulated this fur triumvirate speaks to my personal weakness for saying no to rescue animals (don’t ask how many cats we have). Three dogs can be a handful – especially three of this ilk. They are equal parts cute, crazy and vision impaired. A fixture in the barn, they are usually adored and doted on by our guests. One soon learns, however, that excited dogs, cheese platters and fine stemware don’t mix. Despite their shortcomings, I am fully aware that these three have given me far more than I will ever be able give to them.
A big change is that I’m now forced to take lunch breaks, a rarity prior to their arrival. To be responsible for living creatures has been a wake-up call of sorts, although many times that call comes way too early in the morning in the form of a blood-curdling Nova Scotia Duck Toller scream (Google it). The lighter moments they supply are a welcome distraction from the inevitable hail storms, bottle shock, mildew, rotten Pinot Noir and determined starlings that I always seem to be worrying about. Come to think of it, they even help ward off those pesky starlings! Most importantly they make me stop and enjoy life, for both human and dog years go by way too quickly.
Over the coming weeks I’ll be posting the vinification notes for each of our six new wines and sending out an email order request to all those who’ve left their contact information in our guest book. In the meantime, dedicated followers of this blog are welcome to pre-order any of our 2010 reds or 2012 whites they would like (wes@fiverows.com). They should be ready for pick-up by May 1st.
Rounding up the family and heading out to a fancy dinner is a foreign experience for many farmers. The Clampett’s…err…Lowrey’s are no exception, and really don’t get out much. My own culinary expertise is limited to impeccably microwaved Michelina’s (down to the second!) and hastily constructed lunchtime wraps.
“Pa”, however, puts me to shame with his mastery of outdoor, open-flame cooking. He is aloof in the kitchen, but can skillet fry just about anything over his gnarled pile of burning grape trunks. I once saw him make perfect toast using welding gloves, a long-handled frying pan and diesel fuel. He ended the show by flipping eggs with a one-iron (he could never hit it anyway).
Suffice it to say, we always jump at the chance to get dolled up and host a civilized Winemaker’s dinner every year at Treadwell’s. Thankfully for the patrons, we are only responsible for bringing the wine. Seriously, we treasure the opportunity to share this annual experience with so many of our supporters. The signed menu, seen below, has become a treasured memento for us, growing in names each year. It’s something we display with pride in our barn and reflect on fondly with many of our guests.
As you can see, this year’s menu was a masterpiece. I can easily recall the distinct flavours of each dish as I write this, a sure sign of a wonderfully skilled kitchen and chef. My compliments to James and the entire staff for the seeming ease at which they managed each course.
Of the wines I tried on this evening, the 2008 Syrah was a highlight for me – perhaps for sentimental reasons. We decided to raid the cellar and bring our last case to share on this appropriate occasion. The smoked duck was an astute pair, picking up on the smoky, earthy and savoury elements of the Syrah. Many commented on how much the flavours and mouthfeel had changed since they last tried it. The classic Syrah pepper, earth and floral elements were still there, but the once subtle dark fruit components had come to the fore both aromatically and on the palate. It leads me to think that this wine is probably best consumed during this exciting time in its evolution (for those who still have a bottle).
The sumptuous “pulled pork” course might have been James’ nod to our participation in the most recent Pigs and Pinot celebration in Healdsburg, California. My parents were thrilled to visit Sonoma and represent Canada at the “Pinot Smackdown”, which they managed to escape without a scratch.
We ended the night with a barrel sample of the 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. I figured this was appropriate given that Sauvignon Blanc is, in many ways, the reason we have forged such a strong relationship with Treadwell’s. The feedback was promising with many not letting me leave without guaranteeing them at least a six-pack.
The 2012 has a ripe nose very reminiscent of the 2010, which makes sense because both were generally warm, dry years. The mouthfeel and flavours were still a work in progress though, following bentonite fining, cold stabilization and possibly ongoing malolacitc fermentation. As with most classy dames she didn’t want to give away all her secrets on the first date!
A heartfelt thanks to all who attended.
We can now announce some details regarding a couple of exciting winter events we have in the works.
Firstly, I am floored by the response to our Treadwell’s Winemaker Dinner on January 26. Based on the turnout to previous dinners, James and I had anticipated the usual 25-30 loyal Five Rows fans who had joined us in the past. However, within a week of the dinner announcement this year it became apparent that we were going to need a bigger boat. The enthusiastic request for seats meant the entire restaurant would have to be closed down to accommodate our ever-expanding group of friends.
What a great night it should be! I’ve had a chance to preview the proposed menu and can report that Stephen and James have outdone themselves yet again. The wines we have chosen to showcase are: 2011 Pinot Gris, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Pinot Noir, 2008 Shiraz and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine. Most of these wines have been sold out for a while, so we had to source them from Wilma’s personal library (it took some convincing). I also plan to bring along a surprise barrel sample, as this was very well received last year. Any requests?
The 25th Anniversary Cuvée Celebration will take place March 1-3rd. In an effort to reflect the nostalgic theme this year, we’ve decided to dip into our library for the Cuvée En Route tasting sessions. Anyone wishing to visit us over that weekend is invited to participate in the first ever Five Rows Pinot Noir vertical tasting, featuring wines from 2007, 2008 and 2009. I hope to collect some useful feedback to better advise those who’ve resisted temptation and continue to age these wines in their cellar. Please email or call if you plan to stop in over the weekend so we can determine how many bottles might be required.
The relaxing afterglow experienced at the end of a vintage presents a great time to reflect on the many wonderful visitors we’ve hosted over the past year. Some are returnees who’ve come to pick up their treasured order, others stumble upon us while searching for another winery and a few brave souls even traverse unimproved roads determined to reach their destination. It is a testament to every single one of you that our tiny winery has become a pilgrimage for wine lovers from around the world!
It’s easy for us to say we plan to grow by “word of mouth”, but without the right “words” and “mouths” – it just doesn’t work. We thank you for being that “mouth”, a true Five Rows ambassador! All of you have helped to make our tasting room a rewarding place to spend our weekends.
Each year we’ve attempted to make a few more cases of wine to keep up with demands and stretch quantities through to our spring bottling date. Consequently, our production is up to 750 cases in 2012. Thanks to your enthusiasm and generosity we are down to the final 40 cases of both 2009 Pinot Noir and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine – everything else is sold out. Christmas orders and deliveries can still be arranged if you would like.
We look forward to having you taste the 2012 whites and much-anticipated 2010 reds next spring. Expect a release announcement and order request on or around May 1st. As in previous years, we will not have regular weekend retail hours from January through March (apart from Cuvee weekend March 1-3). Appointments can still be arranged anytime. In fact, the barn can get quite lonely over the winter so don’t make yourself a stranger!
Five Rows would like to sincerely thank Mike Di Caro and Suresh Doss of Spotlight Toronto for visiting our winery last week and relating our story to their readers. Mike’s article appeared in the popular “30 Days on Wine” feature that we look forward to every year. You can read it here.
Kind words during the grueling harvest are always welcome – Thanks guys!
We are in the midst of a summer for the ages – and that’s all I’m willing to say at the moment. I will spare the superlatives in an effort not to tempt fate. So much can (and probably will) go wrong between now and the end of harvest. Suffice it to say we are mere days away from taking in the first of our fruit. That’s silly early!
While experiencing these ideal conditions I like to reminisce about years when we weren’t so fortunate. I remember well the late, cool and wet summer of 2009. Conditions were optimal for the early varieties, but proved a serious challenge for ripening Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. We thinned down to ridiculous levels (a few bunches per vine) but the acid levels in the grapes remained very high in both varieties. I clearly remember making the sad decision not to harvest any of this fruit for our Five Rows wines. It was decided to sell the Shiraz to another winery and hang the Cab Sauv for Icewine. Before the Icewine nets went up, my ever optimistic Mother made the suggestion to go through our Cab Sauv blocks and select only the ripest of bunches in an effort to salvage a couple barrels worth of fruit. Every ounce of winemaker in me screamed no, but how could I say no to Wilma? The next day we set out to do our tedious selective picking.
So begins the tale of our 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon or as I like to call it “The wine that almost wasn’t”. This elegant wine is now for sale in our barn, which is a minor miracle based on how many times it was written off.
It was intensely aromatic from the get go, but took 30 months in some magical old barrels to achieve it’s current mouthfeel, structure and flavour profile. During those 30 months in my beloved (but soon to be retired) 2002 Gillet barrels, this wine was always an afterthought. In fact, I even looked into selling it as bulk a couple of times just to get it out of the barn. Fortunately, there were no takers. Sometime around the two year mark spent in barrel, things began to change and those two black sheep began to get my attention. I found myself tasting them at least once a week, just to make sure I wasn’t going nuts. I began to feel that this 2009 Cab could actually one day don a Five Rows label. My first thought was to use it as a silent partner with our 2010 Cab, but the blending trials flopped. I proceeded to try a Shiraz/Cab Sauv blend, but that idea was also eventually nixed.
The resilient 2009 Five Rows Cabernet Sauvignon had managed to dodge every bullet I could muster. There was no other option than to let it rightfully stand on its own. I now consider this wine to be a secret bonus for those open-minded oenophiles who don’t practice vintage discrimination. There are people who will never try this wine simply because it was made in 2009. That just leaves more for the rest of us. This Cab is texturally gorgeous and delivers classic Lowrey Cab Sauv aromatics (blackberry, cherry, cassis) and wonderful balance that literally appeared out of nowhere. 50 cases were bottled on April 6th, 2012. It will be fun to compare and contrast this wine with the big bombers on the horizon (2010 and 2012).