Letting the Vineyard be the Star

Monday, May 12th, 2025

While cleaning out my desk recently, I opened up a day-timer from 2008 and was instantly transported back to a life I scarcely remember.  It was a time when we were on the cusp of something special, but I didn’t know it yet.  There were notes from introductory meetings with Insite Design, a honeymoon in Paris and Burgundy planned without a smartphone, a golf trip with my Dad to Williamsburg and some ideas for the name of a winery.  “How many rows of Pinot did Mom and Dad first plant back then?”

Fittingly, thanks to those fruitful sessions with Insite, just about the only thing that hasn’t changed over the last 17 years is our wine label.  To put things into context, you have to remember that blogs were cutting edge back then and my idea of “social media” was an email exchange with Peter Mansbridge about his enjoyment of our Pinot Gris.  Ultimately, the exercise was a fun reminder about why we got into this in the first place and the early challenges and uncertainty that we faced.

One odd note I came across was a page that simply had the words “letting the vineyard be the star” written on it.  I don’t remember the context or what I intended to do with that thought, but perhaps it has been a silent mantra engrained within me throughout this whole journey.  Maybe it was a humble reminder that it’s not meant to be about me, but a tribute to those whocame before.  More likely, I was attempting to manifest a situation where everything revolved around what happened in the vineyard – the blog stories, the wines, my daily farm work and meeting people for tastings in the barn.  Come to think of it, maybe that part hasn’t changed much either.

In an era where the look at me culture fostered by many social media platforms becomes the new norm, it can be difficult to trust that the way you have always done things still resonates.  Seeing that statement, on a page written in 2008, was just the perspective tonic I needed to keep letting it happen from the vineyard out.

2022 Pinot Noir

Monday, May 12th, 2025

2022 Pinot Noir

I’m not sure how many people’s Mom’s taught them everything they know about growing Pinot Noir, but consider us a lucky few.  Yes, one of the things that makes Five Rows unique is the passed down love of working in a vineyard.  Nowhere is that more the case than in our old Pinot Noir block.

It is inspiring to read so many stories these days celebrating the critical role played by women in the development of our industry, and it makes me proud to know that my Mom has been doing her part for over 40 years.  Early on, it didn’t take her long to realize that growing Pinot Noir would present a very different challenge to the hybrids and labruscas that she was accustomed to tending.  Like many other vinifera converts at the time, my parents were forced to re-learn grape growing on the fly, her in the vines and he on the tractor.  Thankfully, I got to observe them both as I grew in step with those first Pinot vines.

My sister and I were raised on the forefront of a changing industry.  Everything that Ontario grape growers and wineries did in the 1980s was new and understandably questioned by the establishment.  It is a much different experience for our kids 40 years later – the industry is established, respected and much larger.  You might say they have it a little easier, but growing Pinot Noir is still as challenging as it ever has been and I can’t wait to pass that on…in a good way!

Although not as severe as seen in other varietals, the usually hardy old Pinot Noir vines were not spared the winterkill damage of 2022.  This meant significantly lower yields and more attention paid to vine balance and nutrient status within the block throughout the vintage.  Excellent summer growing conditions made for few issues in ripening that light crop, which was harvested on September 24th.

Normally, I would choose entire rows to harvest for our production, but the sporadic crop distribution necessitated a different approach.  It was decided to use portions of many rows as opposed to whole rows, and for that reason the 2022 Five Rows Pinot is perhaps the most representative exploration of terroir over the entire Old Block we have made to date.

Tasting notes:

Good colour for Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir.  Refreshingly intense, ripe red fruit component (wild strawberry, cherry).  The subtle oak is mainly perceptible on the palate, showing harmonious integration.  An underlying hint of terroir-defining truffle/mushroom supports the bright fruit.  Pleasing tannins that do not overwhelm the palate, quite the opposite, inviting one to envision what the future might hold for this wine, this vineyard.

2024 Sauvignon Blanc

Monday, May 12th, 2025

2024 Sauvignon Blanc

“The Infinite Variability of Terroir”

One day, while inspecting the hundreds of new replants in our Sauvignon Blanc vineyards, I was struck by the vast amount of variables that are at play behind the creation of any wine.  As I peeked into the grow tubes, one by one, to check on the status of these struggling little sticks in the ground, I couldn’t help but be awed by the evolving and tangled web of life that is a vineyard.

When you really think about all of these variables on a micro level (berry cells, leaf chlorophyll, root growth, soil micronutrients and the intensity of radiation on August 21st at 2pm – just to name a few) it can make your head spin.  It’s a wonder that any two wines ever show any similarity whatsoever!

Enter the winemaker.  They have the tools to mold a wine into a certain style through their choice of barrels, yeast, nutrients and malolactic bacteria.  Alternatively, they may choose to let the anomalies of each vintage shine through by minimal intervention.  This latter approach is my preference, adding even more layers to the seemingly infinite variability of terroir.

The vintage of 2024 may one day be celebrated as one for the ages.  That is much easier to proclaim now, of course, than during the vintage itself.  Contemplating all the things that have to go right for a successful harvest is far more enjoyable after the fact than during the ordeal.  Unlike other standout vintages where the eventual outcome was more obvious early on, 2024 had its share of extreme precipitation events that left our fields flooded in a way we had never experienced before.  The prevailing thought at the time was that the excess precipitation would have a negative effect on fruit quality.  Much like 2023, however, the crop was saved by perfect ripening conditions in August and September.

I’m not sure if birds would be classified as part of the terroir, but they certainly played a part in thinning the Sauvignon Blanc crop this vintage, especially in the northernmost section of the block.  This was yet another anomaly that we had never encountered with this varietal in that specific part of the vineyard.  You may sense a theme here.

The fruit for this wine was harvested from both of our Sauvignon Blanc vineyards on September 11th, with ripening parameters of 20.8 ºBrix, TA 7.35 and pH 3.32.  After pressing, the juice was fermented in a combination of mostly neutral French oak barrels (85%) and tank (15%).  The fermentations were managed to be as slow and cool as possible for maximum aromatic and flavour potential.  Along the way, the wine picked up pronounced citrus and herbaceous notes, subtle tropicality and hints of lemongrass.

The terroir is strong here, both in its familiar hallmarks and vintage specific nuances.

2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

Monday, May 12th, 2025

 

2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

I operate under the assumption that everything I do in the vineyard will slightly improve the wine.  There is belief on almost a spiritual level that I will make better, truer wines by being present in my vineyard every day.  The moment I entertain doubt, I lose confidence and motivation.  Sometimes growing Cabernet Sauvignon in a cool climate can foster those feelings of doubt, as no varietal that we grow is more dependent on the length of the growing season and warm fall conditions.

Perhaps that is why I have mixed feelings about naturally light crop vintages like 2022.  On one hand, a lower yield is just what the doctor ordered for ripeness and tannic maturity in your fruit.  On the other hand, it could be proof that we tend to overcrop our Cabernet Sauvignon in most other seasons, leading to unplanned late season crop adjustments.  Either way, it always comes down to the amount of growing degree days experienced by that crop (heavy or light) in a given season and there is little you can do to influence that!

The 2022 vintage turned out to be a dream season for low-yielding Cabernet Sauvignon in Niagara.  We ended up with some of the ripest Cab we’ve cultivated to date (24.4ºBrix) on one of our earliest harvest days ever (October 16th).  Fruit for this wine was sourced from both of our clones, 169 and 191.  Each block was hand-picked and gently destemmed into its own bin.  The wine was allowed a four day cold soak before indigenous yeast fermentations started naturally, then were managed with three daily punchdowns.  The wine was dry after five more days with a peak fermentation temperature of 32ºC.

Given the ripeness of the fruit, I remained cognisant of the potential overextraction of tannins throughout the fermentation process.  I made it a habit to taste each bin daily to evaluate the mouthfeel, noting if there was any significant change to the tannic profile.  When all the elements felt balanced, we opted to lightly press both bins in our traditional small basket presses.

Four French oak barrels (25% new oak) housed the wine for two years and what evolved was a truly special wine.  It is expressively aromatic, even in it’s youth, and shows equal parts depth and approachability on the palate.

There is no doubt about it, I grow Cabernet Sauvignon to make wines like this.

2022 Syrah

Monday, May 12th, 2025

 

2022 Syrah

My perspective on growing Syrah is a complicated one that has shifted over time.  Winterkill vintages, like 2022, are a reminder of just how tenuous this whole business can be.  An entire vineyard that holds only 15% of it’s normal yield is a depressing challenge that can lead one to question the worthiness of the pursuit.  However, the fact that there is any fruit at all is a blessing compared to the travails faced by those in the Okanagan, who’ve lost everything in recent years.

I’ve come to learn, through the process of trying to source replacement Syrah grapevines in a time of high demand, that the clones we currently grow are a dying breed.  Nurseries are hesitant to propagate Clone 100 or Clone 7 these days, due to their likelihood of developing a foreboding (and aptly prophetic) grapevine disease known as “Syrah Decline”.  Moreover, Syrah was not included as one of the acceptable varietals to plant in a recent Government funded vineyard replacement initiative.  Key evidence that industry stakeholders do not view it as a financially viable option to grow in our region.

With so many strikes against Syrah one is left wondering, “is the juice worth the squeeze?”

Well…of course it is!

The 2022 Syrah crop was one of cleanliness and quality, thanks to a trend of dry weather in the late September days of that vintage.  The precious few hanging clusters ripened optimally in those conditions and started to show signs of desiccation and concentration by the time they were ready to harvest on October 11th.  The final tally was 84 picking boxes (1008 kg), with the majority of the fruit being sourced from the Clone 100 block.

The entire crop was fermented together in one bin for twelve days, with three daily punchdowns and a pretty hot peak temperature of 35°C.  The Syrah was then gently squeezed in our antique basket press after two full weeks on the skins.  Three French oak barrels were then filled, where the wine was allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation and mature for two years.  66 cases were bottled on April 17th, 2025.

The hallmarks of Syrah grown in a cool climate are on full display here:  dark fruit, peppercorn, smokiness and smooth texture all in harmony.  Any dish of wild game or hearty ragù would make a great pair for this wine.  I would expect even more fruit intensity over the next few years in bottle, based on the evolution of previous small yield vintages.

I treat every year that I can put Syrah into a bottle, however small the quantity, like a gift from the vineyard Gods.

2024 Pinot Gris

Monday, May 12th, 2025

2024 Pinot Gris

For as long as I can remember, I’ve had a passion for organizing.  My youth bedroom was a shrine of toys and sports memorabilia that I cherished and methodically categorized.  Toys were for displaying and keeping in meticulous condition, while actually playing with them was an afterthought.  Everything had it’s place and I was happy.  Marie Kondo would have been proud of me.

In grade school, I thoroughly enjoyed creative writing.  However, when faced with the task of writing a story, I much preferred the process of editing to the actual creative endeavour of coming up with original content.  Being able to massage a sentence into something borderline coherent still gives me great joy.  I am no wordsmith, perhaps more of a “wordslayer”.

One area where this penchant for organizing and editing has served me well is the many hours I’ve spent tending to Pinot Gris grapevines over the last 20 years.  When embarking on an adventurous journey down a row of Pinot Gris, the mindset one must adopt is “survive and advance”.  There is a gradual process to canopy management and thinning that can wear on those in need of instant gratification, so it pays to enjoy each vine along the way.

The ultimate goal is a well spaced, vertically growing canopy with two uncrowded clusters per shoot.  It will take multiple passes down a row to achieve this preferred arrangement, so it’s advisable to focus on a single task with each trip.  In my experience Pinot Gris is the most difficult varietal to tame, as it has a tendency to flop over, grow laterally and create “clumps” wherein many clusters are growing tightly together.  Tackling the shoot thinning first, then shoot positioning (tucking), followed by cluster thinning is the usual order of business.  A careful removal of leaves in the fruiting zone is a late season finishing touch.

The grapes for our 2024 Pinot Gris are sourced from two different blocks on our farm.  The older block, a 2004 planting of Clone 457 rootstock SO4, tends to be more vigourous and wild, but fairly predictable in regard to flavour production once properly organized.  The younger block of Clone 53 rootstock 3309 was planted in 2019 and is still in the discovery phase.  The vines seem more amenable to my efforts, with slightly looser clusters that are more robust to disease pressure.  The initial crops have been light and VERY ripe, providing a nice compliment to the older block fruit.

The crop on both blocks was harvested on September 11, 2024.  The pressed juice was notably flavourful and came in at 21.2ºBrix, TA 7.13 and pH 3.38.  Two-thirds of the juice was fermented in neutral French Oak barrels, with the remainder housed in tank.  The cool temperature fermentations spanned September 17 to October 17, gradually accumulating the familiar Pinot Gris aromatics of canned pear, dried apricot and honey.  The most noticeable contribution of the Clone 53 block is in the added aromatic intensity and more complex mouthfeel elements.

To know that vines you personally organized provided the fruit for a wine that you created and edited into its optimal form, is the ultimate in satisfaction.

2024 Riesling

Monday, May 12th, 2025

 

2024 “Jean’s Block” Riesling

Let’s face it, there are very few things in life that we can comfortably rely upon.  The constant expansion of the Universe, the predictable enthusiasm of a Golden Retriever and the aromatic intensity of Riesling are just a few examples that immediately come to mind.  I’ll tackle the origin of Riesling aromatics here and leave the other two phenomena for you to ponder at your leisure.

The Riesling story always begins in the vineyard, with clone choice and terroir.  In most instances, choosing the best clone for your site is a strategic exercise of thorough consideration, while other times a shipping container mysteriously gets “lost at sea” and you take what you can get.  The planting of Clone 49 Riesling on our farm falls more into the latter category, which I now consider a stroke of luck.  The well-drained, clay loam soils bordering the Four Mile Creek proved to be a perfect home for this finicky, Alsatian clone.

While we may not have the dramatic slopes and altitude of its clonal homeland, our unique St. David’s Bench climate and terroir somehow manages to spoil us with expressive Riesling aromatics on a yearly basis.  Channeling my inner Alsatian farmer, the focal points early in the growing season are crop level and canopy management.  I’ve come to learn that Clone 49 can be cropped on the heavier side, providing the canopy is healthy and green.  Fruit exposure decisions are made later in the season based on disease pressure, water status and weather trends.

In 2024, we faced a summer of extreme precipitation events, leading to a fuller canopy and an average size Riesling crop.  It was decided to remove a few leaves in the fruiting zone at veraison to air things out a bit, but care was taken not to overexpose the fruit and compromise our preferred style.  Prospects were looking good in the Riesling through August and early September until a stretch of typical harvest-time humidity.  Windless, humid days and foggy mornings made it impossible for the vines to dry out properly and in quick succession botrytis spores began multiplying on the surfaces of our soaking clusters.  We opted to harvest (in the nick of time!) on September 27th with ideal juice numbers of 18ºBrix, TA 8.6 g/L and pH 3.06.

It was apparent early on in the fermentation process that the aromatic potential was high – i.e. you could distinctly smell the fermenting Riesling as you pulled into the barn parking lot.  I prefer to ferment my Riesling in tank with W15 yeast at a very cool temperature (9-10ºC) to preserve the bright fruit components, eventually stopping the fermentation before reaching complete dryness at a specific gravity of 1.004.  The resulting wine showcases standout notes of candied green apple, citrus, peach and perfumed floral undertones.  It also features palate-awakening acidity and just enough residual sugar to achieve harmonious balance.  In other words, everything that I’ve come to love about Clone 49!