2023 Pinot Noir

Tuesday, May 12th, 2026

2023 Pinot Noir

Sometimes I feel like my life is not measured in years, but in Pinot vintages.  For those curious, one Pinot vintage is roughly equivalent to seven human years, and to that end 2023 might be the year I finally felt my age, in Pinot years.

A great deal of effort went into keeping things on the rails during the tumultuous summer of 2023, but a stabilizing September proved to be the stroke of luck we needed to salvage our early varietals.  Many consecutive warm, dry days and subsequent cool nights allowed for an extended ripening window and a rare October harvest for St. David’s Bench Pinot Noir.

The 2023 Pinot would be the first fruit to benefit from the use of a new destemmer, nicknamed “Red October”, which was better equipped to gently remove whole, intact berries from the stems than our less discretionary older model.  Sourcing the right destemmer for a winery our size sent me on a journey to many different wine regions, until I happened upon a promising classified ad featuring this specific unit.  It was located in Oregon, and upon inquiry the winemaker revealed that she was sad to part with it, but their winery had outgrown its capabilities.

“What it lacks in speed, it makes up for in delicacy,” she said.  “Well, hell,” I replied, “that may as well be the Five Rows motto – sold!”  And with that, the hunt for Red October was finally over.

My longtime dream of more whole berries in my fermentations was now a reality.  The benefits of extracting intact berries versus a more crushed-up maceration are numerous; and it’s one of the reasons that some winemakers even opt for 100% whole cluster fermentations with stems included.  I’ve experimented with various levels of whole cluster inclusion in our Pinot fermentations over the years, but feel that anything over 10% isn’t really beneficial.  The condition and maturity of the stems is a factor here, but my ideal bin would be 10% whole clusters and the rest destemmed.

Whole berries obviously lead to more intracellular fermentation, which promotes lower temperatures and delayed sugar release.  This encourages a slightly stressed fermentation (not a bad thing) and enhanced texture through increased glycerol production.  The result can be a partial carbonic maceration which helps preserve the quality of the fruit, delicacy of texture and capacity to age.  Whole berry fermentations have also been shown to build savoury characters and complexity, and in some “big” Pinot Noir appellations it can add structure without adding coarseness or bitterness.

It took me a while to dial in the conveyer and roller speeds, but before long the beautiful berries were gently rolling down the chutes into the bins.  The fermentations started spontaneously after a five day cold soak, and were noticeably cooler and slower in progression, just as I had hoped.  In total, the fruit remained on the skins for seventeen days before gentle pressing, settling and then racking to barrels (17% new oak).

The 2023 Pinot Noir is a product of diligent vineyard strategy, favourable September weather and the willingness to experiment with something new.  Aromatically, we are talking Bing cherry, cranberry and red licorice with very subtle mushroom notes almost hidden amongst the vibrant fruit.  The refined tannins and smooth overall texture are what separates this wine from previous vintages at the same stage of evolution.  Enjoy this wine now or stash it away for the next couple of Pinot years.

2025 Sauvignon Blanc

Tuesday, May 12th, 2026

2025 Sauvignon Blanc

Inauspicious is the word that comes to mind when I recall the start to the 2025 vintage.  Conditions were wet and cool that Spring, belying the remainder of the growing season we were about to experience.  There would be heat, drought stress and agonizing decisions ahead.

The summer of 2025 proved to be a very dry one in St. David’s, with many potential rain events just passing by to the north or south of our farm.  Our position relative to the Niagara Escarpment plays a major role in the precipitation patterns we experience, and that summer it seemed to act as a point of divergence for fronts approaching from the west.  There comes a point in drier years (2007, 2010, 2012, 2016, 2020) where vineyard mangers must make the call if and when to irrigate.  Is the dry stretch just a blip?  Can you afford to let vines stress a little?  Will too much water negatively effect the wine?  Questions abound.

The decision to irrigate is not one that is made lightly, lest anyone think that it just involves turning on a tap whenever you desire.  On our farm it’s a multi-step process that has evolved to feel like a plan of last resort.  Likely, the pump and pipes haven’t been used for a few years, so the first step is locating the equipment and extricating it from the overgrowth.  When the pump inevitably won’t start, new parts are ordered and you re-consult the Weather Network in an effort to will some rain your way.

Once you are finally set to irrigate, the water level in the creek must be checked and it can only be done on your legally designated day of the week to pull water from the source.  With all systems go you fire up the pump and, by the grace of god, it turns over!  Joy is short lived, however, as multiple leaks sequentially spring from the long line of pipes evoking the fountains of Bellagio.  Maybe it will rain tomorrow, after all.

On August 19th, 2025, on the precipice of vine shutdown, we got the rain we needed.  Most importantly, it bought us enough time to fix the leaks and irrigate for the rest of the season.  The older Sauvignon Blanc vines within the block were still in decent shape, but the replants and younger vines were in dire need of a drink.  From that point on, we were careful not to water to the point of excess, so as to avoid tight clusters, disease pressure and dilution.

The 2025 Sauvignon Blanc was harvested on September 15th at 21.2 degrees Brix, TA 7.20 g/L and pH 3.27.  Pressed juice was then cool-fermented over 40 days in a combination of neutral oak (88%) and steel tank (12%).  Over time there arose a tantalizing tropical and citrus medley – you pick the fruit and it’s probably in there.  It comes across luscious and round on the palate, with a hint of ripe fruit sweetness.

In the end, we probably waited a little too long to irrigate our suffering younger vines in 2025, but the intensity this of wine speaks to the upside of risking minor vine stress in mature, deep-rooted vines to pursue peak flavour concentration.

2023 Syrah

Tuesday, May 12th, 2026

2023 Syrah

Syrah is an enigma to me.  If you were to take a poll of wine lovers, it would be far from the most popular Ontario grown Vinifera varietal.  Yet mysteriously, year after year, it proves to be a brisk online seller for us and is usually among the first of our wines to sell out.  Something is afoot here and I think I’ve got an idea.

I am convinced that there is an underground secret society of Syrah lovers in our midst.  I picture them masquerading around wine circles as Gamay enthusiasts to throw people off their scent, but a faint trail of peppery musk betrays this facade.  Hiding in plain sight, brilliant!  There is an assumed risk in just mentioning this theory, but I feel it’s my duty to shed light on this clandestine group and perhaps make an effort to join their ranks, that is providing they’ll have me.  On that note, if I were to disappear sometime this Spring, don’t come looking for me.**

Growing Syrah in a cool climate is an epic, never-ending roller coaster ride filled with twists and turns, peaks and valleys, gradual climbs and steep falls.  It’s unpredictable, if anything, and makes you question the limits of your courage.  For the record, roller coasters make me sick.

With the lowly yields of the previous vintage fresh in our minds, we crossed our fingers as the first Syrah buds of 2023 sprung to life.  The countdown was on to see whether the new trunks we painstakingly established the previous summer were up to the task of supporting vegetative growth.

Early season conditions were ideal and our focus soon shifted to balancing the number of primary shoots on each new trunk.  It can be difficult to summon the aggressiveness required when thinning these vigorous canes, especially the year after a light crop, but the alternative is a crowded and unruly canopy, a serious Syrah faux pas.

The rebound season stretched on through the summer months, with more than adequate precipitation to support the now thriving vines.  It became apparent that we were dealing with a bumper crop of large-berried clusters, so extra attention was paid to achieving proper fruit exposure and cluster spacing to combat fungal growth.  Thankfully, a relatively dry and cool September resulted in clean fruit – for once!

We finally hand-harvested our Syrah on October 27th, a full sixteen days later than the previous vintage.  The fruit was destemmed whole berry into two bins.  Following a three day cold soak, the bins began to ferment and we were off to the races.  The whole berries helped moderate the temperature and extend the fermentation to seven days, with total skin contact time of twelve days.  Both bins were gently pressed and then racked to French oak barrels (20% new) for maturation over the next two years.

The 2023 Syrah is aromatically pure, with components of ripe cherry, blackberry, mocha, vanilla and pepper.  The palate showcases good balance and very supple tannins, perhaps due to the glycerolic texture derived from the whole berry fermentation.  This wine trends toward “drink now” for me, but I will be laying some cases down to explore how it ages over the next decade.

**It occurs to me now that if you are reading these notes you probably are a member of this Syrah Secret Society…my apologies, enjoy your Gamay!

2023 Cabernet Sauvignon

Tuesday, May 12th, 2026

2023 Cabernet Sauvignon

The last few days of a vintage are an interesting time.  Every varietal has been harvested, save one, and many new wines are in various stages of evolution.  Vineyard and winery crews are running on fumes by this point, but buoyed by the thoughts of the last bins of the season soon being delivered to their crush pads.  There is cautious optimism for those early season varietals that have already been vinified and put to bed, and hope that the stately Cabernet Sauvignon still hanging in the field will be worth the wait.

The vintage of 2023 marked the beginning of a notable three year run for both quality and yield in late-ripening Niagara reds.  A perfect stretch of September weather helped stifle the mounting disease pressure caused by a humid and wetter than normal summer.  It also coincided with the debut of a new Five Rows destemmer, better capable of extracting intact, whole berries from the stems.  What could go wrong?

Our ripe and clean Cabernet Sauvignon were hand-harvested on November 3rd and destemmed whole berry into fermenting bins.  Picture a one tonne bin filled with solid, thick-skinned berries and not a stem in sight – just beautiful.  Now try to picture aggressively plunging a punchdown tool into that bin to break through the surface…obviously not going to happen!

The first few “punchdowns” involved hip waders and some tense moments standing atop a solid cap of Cabernet Sauvignon berries, wondering if I had made a huge mistake by not partially crushing these berries to release some juice to get the fermentation started.  Thankfully, the problem took care of itself after a few days when the heat and CO2 of spontaneous fermentation began to soften the cap naturally, releasing a little more juice into the solution with each successive punchdown.  This whole process has a way of humbling you at times with reminders of its ultimate inevitability.

Following a post-fermentation extended maceration, the wine was pressed gently in a basket press, and on first taste it was clear that the inclusion of whole berries had produced the desired effect on the tannins.  This would become even more pronounced over the next two years in barrel.

The end result is a 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon that is well-structured with palate-pleasing tannins and a maturity beyond its years.  Aromas include wild blackberry, dark cherry, blackcurrant jam, vanilla and faint black olive.  It is an approachable wine that should age gracefully thanks to the requisite amount of balancing acidity.  Cellaring recommendation 2027-2035.

2022 Pinot Noir

Monday, May 12th, 2025

2022 Pinot Noir

I’m not sure how many people’s Mom’s taught them everything they know about growing Pinot Noir, but consider us a lucky few.  Yes, one of the things that makes Five Rows unique is the passed down love of working in a vineyard.  Nowhere is that more the case than in our old Pinot Noir block.

It is inspiring to read so many stories these days celebrating the critical role played by women in the development of our industry, and it makes me proud to know that my Mom has been doing her part for over 40 years.  Early on, it didn’t take her long to realize that growing Pinot Noir would present a very different challenge to the hybrids and labruscas that she was accustomed to tending.  Like many other vinifera converts at the time, my parents were forced to re-learn grape growing on the fly, her in the vines and he on the tractor.  Thankfully, I got to observe them both as I grew in step with those first Pinot vines.

My sister and I were raised on the forefront of a changing industry.  Everything that Ontario grape growers and wineries did in the 1980s was new and understandably questioned by the establishment.  It is a much different experience for our kids 40 years later – the industry is established, respected and much larger.  You might say they have it a little easier, but growing Pinot Noir is still as challenging as it ever has been and I can’t wait to pass that on…in a good way!

Although not as severe as seen in other varietals, the usually hardy old Pinot Noir vines were not spared the winterkill damage of 2022.  This meant significantly lower yields and more attention paid to vine balance and nutrient status within the block throughout the vintage.  Excellent summer growing conditions made for few issues in ripening that light crop, which was harvested on September 24th.

Normally, I would choose entire rows to harvest for our production, but the sporadic crop distribution necessitated a different approach.  It was decided to use portions of many rows as opposed to whole rows, and for that reason the 2022 Five Rows Pinot is perhaps the most representative exploration of terroir over the entire Old Block we have made to date.

Tasting notes:

Good colour for Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir.  Refreshingly intense, ripe red fruit component (wild strawberry, cherry).  The subtle oak is mainly perceptible on the palate, showing harmonious integration.  An underlying hint of terroir-defining truffle/mushroom supports the bright fruit.  Pleasing tannins that do not overwhelm the palate, quite the opposite, inviting one to envision what the future might hold for this wine, this vineyard.

2024 Sauvignon Blanc

Monday, May 12th, 2025

2024 Sauvignon Blanc

“The Infinite Variability of Terroir”

One day, while inspecting the hundreds of new replants in our Sauvignon Blanc vineyards, I was struck by the vast number of variables that are at play behind the creation of any wine.  As I peeked into the grow tubes, one by one, to check on the status of these struggling little sticks in the ground, I couldn’t help but be awed by the evolving and tangled web of life that is a vineyard.

When you really think about all of these variables on a micro level (berry cells, leaf chlorophyll, root growth, soil micronutrients and the intensity of radiation on August 21st at 2pm – just to name a few) it can make your head spin.  It’s a wonder that any two wines ever show any similarity whatsoever!

Enter the winemaker.  They have the tools to mold a wine into a certain style through their choice of barrels, yeast, nutrients and malolactic bacteria.  Alternatively, they may choose to let the anomalies of each vintage shine through by minimal intervention.  This latter approach is my preference, adding even more layers to the seemingly infinite variability of terroir.

The vintage of 2024 may one day be celebrated as one for the ages.  That is much easier to proclaim now, of course, than during the vintage itself.  Contemplating all the things that have to go right for a successful harvest is far more enjoyable after the fact than during the ordeal.  Unlike other standout vintages where the eventual outcome was more obvious early on, 2024 had its share of extreme precipitation events that left our fields flooded in a way we had never experienced before.  The prevailing thought at the time was that the excess precipitation would have a negative effect on fruit quality.  Much like 2023, however, the crop was saved by perfect ripening conditions in August and September.

I’m not sure if birds would be classified as part of the terroir, but they certainly played a part in thinning the Sauvignon Blanc crop this vintage, especially in the northernmost section of the block.  This was yet another anomaly that we had never encountered with this varietal in that specific part of the vineyard.  You may sense a theme here.

The fruit for this wine was harvested from both of our Sauvignon Blanc vineyards on September 11th, with ripening parameters of 20.8 ºBrix, TA 7.35 and pH 3.32.  After pressing, the juice was fermented in a combination of mostly neutral French oak barrels (85%) and tank (15%).  The fermentations were managed to be as slow and cool as possible for maximum aromatic and flavour potential.  Along the way, the wine picked up pronounced citrus and herbaceous notes, subtle tropicality and hints of lemongrass.

The terroir is strong here, both in its familiar hallmarks and vintage specific nuances.

2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

Monday, May 12th, 2025

 

2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

I operate under the assumption that everything I do in the vineyard will slightly improve the wine.  There is a belief that I will make better, truer wines by being present in my vineyard every day.  The moment I entertain doubt, I lose confidence and motivation.  Sometimes growing Cabernet Sauvignon in a cool climate can foster those feelings of doubt, as no varietal that we grow is more dependent on the length of the growing season and warm fall conditions.

Perhaps that is why I have mixed feelings about naturally light crop vintages like 2022.  On one hand, a lower yield is just what the doctor ordered for ripeness and tannic maturity in your fruit.  On the other hand, it could be proof that we tend to overcrop our Cabernet Sauvignon in most other seasons, leading to unplanned late season crop adjustments.  Either way, it always comes down to the amount of growing degree days experienced by that crop (heavy or light) in a given season and there is little you can do to influence that!

The 2022 vintage turned out to be a dream season for low-yielding Cabernet Sauvignon in Niagara.  We ended up with some of the ripest Cab we’ve cultivated to date (24.4ºBrix) on one of our earliest harvest days ever (October 16th).  Fruit for this wine was sourced from both of our clones, 169 and 191.  Each block was hand-picked and gently destemmed into its own bin.  The wine was allowed a four-day cold soak before indigenous yeast fermentations started naturally, then were managed with three daily punchdowns.  The wine was dry after five more days with a peak fermentation temperature of 32ºC.

Given the ripeness of the fruit, I remained cognisant of the potential overextraction of tannins throughout the fermentation process.  I made it a habit to taste each bin daily to evaluate the mouthfeel, noting if there was any significant change to the tannic profile.  When all the elements felt balanced, we opted to lightly press both bins in our traditional small basket presses.

Four French oak barrels (25% new oak) housed the wine for two years and what evolved was a truly special wine.  It is expressively aromatic, even in its youth, and shows equal parts depth and approachability on the palate.

There is no doubt about it, I grow Cabernet Sauvignon to make wines like this.

2022 Syrah

Monday, May 12th, 2025

 

2022 Syrah

My perspective on growing Syrah is a complicated one that has shifted over time.  Winterkill vintages, like 2022, are a reminder of just how tenuous this whole business can be.  An entire vineyard that holds only 15% of its normal yield is a depressing challenge that can lead one to question the worthiness of the pursuit.  However, the fact that there is any fruit at all is a blessing compared to the travails faced by those in the Okanagan, who’ve lost everything in recent years.

I’ve come to learn, through the process of trying to source replacement Syrah grapevines in a time of high demand, that the clones we currently grow are a dying breed.  Nurseries are hesitant to propagate Clone 100 or Clone 7 these days, due to their likelihood of developing a foreboding (and aptly prophetic) grapevine disease known as “Syrah Decline”.  Moreover, Syrah was not included as one of the acceptable varietals to plant in a recent Government funded vineyard replacement initiative.  Key evidence that industry stakeholders do not view it as a financially viable option to grow in our region.

With so many strikes against Syrah one is left wondering, “is the juice worth the squeeze?”

Well…of course it is!

The 2022 Syrah crop was one of cleanliness and quality, thanks to a trend of dry weather in the late September days of that vintage.  The precious few hanging clusters ripened optimally in those conditions and started to show signs of desiccation and concentration by the time they were ready to harvest on October 11th.  The final tally was 84 picking boxes (1008 kg), with the majority of the fruit being sourced from the Clone 100 block.

The entire crop was fermented together in one bin for twelve days, with three daily punchdowns and a pretty hot peak temperature of 35°C.  The Syrah was then gently squeezed in our antique basket press after two full weeks on the skins.  Three French oak barrels were then filled, where the wine was allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation and mature for two years.  66 cases were bottled on April 17th, 2025.

The hallmarks of Syrah grown in a cool climate are on full display here:  dark fruit, peppercorn, smokiness and smooth texture all in harmony.  Any dish of wild game or hearty ragù would make a great pair for this wine.  I would expect even more fruit intensity over the next few years in bottle, based on the evolution of previous small yield vintages.

I treat every year that I can put Syrah into a bottle, however small the quantity, like a gift from the vineyard Gods.

2024 Pinot Gris

Monday, May 12th, 2025

2024 Pinot Gris

For as long as I can remember, I’ve had a passion for organizing.  My youth bedroom was a shrine of toys and sports memorabilia that I cherished and methodically categorized.  Toys were for displaying and keeping in meticulous condition, while actually playing with them was an afterthought.  Everything had its place and I was happy.  Marie Kondo would have been proud of me.

In grade school, I thoroughly enjoyed creative writing.  However, when faced with the task of writing a story, I much preferred the process of editing to the actual creative endeavour of coming up with original content.  Being able to massage a sentence into something borderline coherent still gives me great joy.  I am no wordsmith, perhaps more of a “wordslayer”.

One area where this penchant for organizing and editing has served me well is the many hours I’ve spent tending to Pinot Gris grapevines over the last 20 years.  When embarking on an adventurous journey down a row of Pinot Gris, the mindset one must adopt is “survive and advance”.  There is a gradual process to canopy management and thinning that can wear on those in need of instant gratification, so it pays to enjoy each vine along the way.

The ultimate goal is a well-spaced, vertically growing canopy with two uncrowded clusters per shoot.  It will take multiple passes down a row to achieve this preferred arrangement, so it’s advisable to focus on a single task with each trip.  In my experience Pinot Gris is the most difficult varietal to tame, as it has a tendency to flop over, grow laterally and create “clumps” wherein many clusters are growing tightly together.  Tackling the shoot thinning first, then shoot positioning (tucking), followed by cluster thinning is the usual order of business.  A careful removal of leaves in the fruiting zone is a late season finishing touch.

The grapes for our 2024 Pinot Gris are sourced from two different blocks on our farm.  The older block, a 2004 planting of Clone 457 rootstock SO4, tends to be more vigourous and wild, but fairly predictable in regard to flavour production once properly organized.  The younger block of Clone 53 rootstock 3309 was planted in 2019 and is still in the discovery phase.  The vines seem more amenable to my efforts, with slightly looser clusters that are more robust to disease pressure.  The initial crops have been light and VERY ripe, providing a nice complement to the older block fruit.

The crop from both blocks was harvested on September 11, 2024.  Pressed juice was notably flavourful and came in at 21.2ºBrix, TA 7.13 and pH 3.38.  Two-thirds of the juice was fermented in neutral French Oak barrels, with the remainder housed in tank.  The cool temperature fermentations spanned September 17 to October 17, gradually accumulating the familiar Pinot Gris aromatics of canned pear, dried apricot and honey.  The most noticeable contribution of the Clone 53 block is in the added aromatic intensity and more complex mouthfeel elements.

To know that vines you personally organized, provided the fruit for a wine that you created and edited into its optimal form, is the ultimate in satisfaction.

2024 Riesling

Monday, May 12th, 2025

 

2024 “Jean’s Block” Riesling

Let’s face it, there are very few things in life that we can comfortably rely upon.  The constant expansion of the Universe, the predictable enthusiasm of a Golden Retriever and the aromatic intensity of Riesling are just a few examples that immediately come to mind.  I’ll tackle the origin of Riesling aromatics here and leave the other two phenomena for you to ponder at your leisure.

The Riesling story always begins in the vineyard, with clone choice and terroir.  In most instances, choosing the best clone for your site is a strategic exercise of thorough consideration, while other times a shipping container mysteriously gets “lost at sea” and you take what you can get.  The planting of Clone 49 Riesling on our farm falls more into the latter category, which I now consider a stroke of luck.  The well-drained, clay loam soils bordering the Four Mile Creek proved to be a perfect home for this finicky, Alsatian clone.

While we may not have the dramatic slopes and altitude of its clonal homeland, our unique St. David’s Bench climate and terroir somehow manages to spoil us with expressive Riesling aromatics on a yearly basis.  Channeling my inner Alsatian farmer, the focal points early in the growing season are crop level and canopy management.  I’ve come to learn that Clone 49 can be cropped on the heavier side, providing the canopy is healthy and green.  Fruit exposure decisions are made later in the season based on disease pressure, water status and weather trends.

In 2024, we faced a summer of extreme precipitation events, leading to a fuller canopy and an average size Riesling crop.  It was decided to remove a few leaves in the fruiting zone at veraison to air things out a bit, but care was taken not to overexpose the fruit and compromise our preferred style.  Prospects were looking good in the Riesling through August and early September until a stretch of typical harvest-time humidity.  Windless, humid days and foggy mornings made it impossible for the vines to dry out properly and in quick succession botrytis spores began multiplying on the surfaces of our soaking clusters.  We opted to harvest (in the nick of time!) on September 27th with ideal juice numbers of 18ºBrix, TA 8.6 g/L and pH 3.06.

It was apparent early on in the fermentation process that the aromatic potential was high – i.e. you could distinctly smell the fermenting Riesling as you pulled into the barn parking lot.  I prefer to ferment my Riesling in tank with W15 yeast at a very cool temperature (9-10ºC) to preserve the bright fruit components, eventually stopping the fermentation before reaching complete dryness at a specific gravity of 1.004.

The resulting wine showcases standout notes of candied green apple, citrus, peach and perfumed floral undertones.  It also features palate-awakening acidity and just enough residual sugar to achieve harmonious balance.  In other words, everything that I’ve come to love about Clone 49!